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It's good to know I'm not the only one who's ever gotten sick from sanding a motherboard :/

Thanks for the warning! I'll be careful.

I noticed that earlier, but I wasn't sure what it was. I'll take a closer look. Thanks!

Update: I didn't have any 200 - 1000 grit sandpaper on hand, so I made due with what I had. I started with 80, then went to 180, used one of those really fine squishy block sanders, and finished it off with the soft fabric (maybe it's for buffing?) tip on my dremel. I went back over all the cut...

I'll give that a try. If it doesn't work, could I just wire everything up and hope it boots?

I removed all those components, but still nothing :(. Could it have anything to do with the fact that I removed U10 without replacing it with anything?

Hey! Does anyone know a good place to get a copy of TTYD? It's ridiculously expensive on eBay, usually going for around $100 at least. If anyone spots one or knows of a place to get it for $60 or less please let me know!

What components specifically should I desolder? Can I just remove any that are outside the line of the image on the trimming guide? (btw, I cleaned the board but there's still nothing. However, when you set it to 200, it reads as 1 instead of 0 so at least I know they're connected somehow)

Ok, so I tracked down the scrap parts of the original motherboard and confirmed it was an RVL CPU 60. I redid the measurements and they are pretty close to the ones posted on Nold's forum. Except for the GND by 1.8. For some reason, it always plummets to zero no matter what setting I have the...

If you have one, I'm pretty sure you could also print the shell on a Prussa 3D printer. It would be much cheaper, but the post processing would be a lot of work and I doubt the translucent filaments would look nearly as nice or clean. Here's some photos of a a translucent print I did on one...

You can use an MX chip from a different Wii on an already existing trim? There aren't any compatibility issues? (I messed up mine as well and was wondering if I could use one from another console)

Alright, I tried to check the resistances on the trim. However, I forgot which model revision it was (it was black and had the Gamecube controller ports, so at least I know it's a 4 layer board). Here is a picture of the resistances I got (each was done on the 20k setting). Do any of these...

Thanks so much for the detailed response! I’ll jump on those corrections as soon possible. I don’t know where this project would be right now without you’re guys’ help, I really appreciate it.

Here’s an update. A few days ago, I wired the PMS-PD to the RVL PMS and just finished most of the wiring from the RVL PMS to the Wii board. There are still a few more things to do before I can test it though. I need to finish wiring up the terminals on my battery pack, then connect the original...

Yeah, probably not the safest place to put it … but I mean, that’s the nice thing about Chromebooks. I could drop that thing off a 7 story building and still be able to take it to school the next day. They virtually indestructible (but they do suck at everything else a computer’s supposed to do :/ )

Here’s a quick look at my jank soldering setup

That's a relief! I can easily replace all those other spots where I used it. As long as I don't have to redo SCW, SCW and u10, I'm okay lol

So pretty much everything connecting to the RVL-PMS should be with 22awg? I used the magnet wire for some of the connections (like the SDW and the SCW) because it was easier to get on the tiny pads on the back of the Wii. Is that alright or should I replace them?

Is there a guide that tells me where to solder thicker wires vs. something like magnet wire?