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https://github.com/Gmanmodz

The 64AMP is opensource on Gunnar's github. As for the N64PMS, you can do what I did and modify the opensource RVL-PMS into an N64PMS (just cut off the top of the board and rearrange some pads)

What's your battery voltage? Sounds like it could just be a case of low battery.

Gotcha gotcha! Hey, if it works, it works! From what I've experienced, the adhesive on these heatsinks isn't too permanent, they can usually come off with a light twist, but I 100% see your point and like the idea of ease-of-disassembly. Regarding the copper plates, I feel like it might be even...

IIRC Gman had some cooling issues with the N64SPv1, and ended up going with regular ol' heatsinks on all of the chips Also curious, why did you attach copper plates to the bottom of each of your heatsinks? And what are you using to mount the copper plate to the heatsink / N64 chips? Each layer...

It's not required and the system will boot just fine without it.

That's the audio amp, you'll need it for what you're doing. You can either file away at the package to expose the lead and solder to that, or you can remove it and replace it with a new one. If you want to go with the latter, hit me up! I have more than a couple to spare and can send them for...

That trim and your resistances look good! Most multimeters will beep for continuity for anything below 50(ish) ohms, but we're really looking for dead shorts (0 ohms) with our checks. It's normal for those lines to have that low of resistances. For future trims, I would recommend starting with...

Honestly, you can power the GC+ with 34awg, so whatever he's using should be fine.

That is a 3v3 supply from the Wii board. You don't need to wire 3v3 to that point. It looks like you have 3v3 wired to your controller board, I would confirm that just to be sure.

My guess here is that you didn't wire SDA / SCL between the PMS and the UAMP, and that you only have those lines going between the Wii and the PMS. Also you can edit your post instead of double posting, it helps keep thread clutter down.

If you're not seeing any audio settings available in RVLoader, I would think there's a problem with the i2c communication (SDA / SCL). Are you able to see temperature / battery level in RVLoader? And in the RVLoader settings, under status, does it say "PMS2 / Lite detected" and "UAMP2 / RVL-AMP...

Yes, you can just hook it up to a bench power supply and check your output voltages.

I would keep them in tact and not remove the chips unless you have some kind of board redesign like Gunnar's or SparkleBear’s 3x3. I would image (unless the main chips themselves are toasted) that all of these can be revived. In my N64 shenanigans, I have found the Advanced Trimming Guide and...

Sidebars, sidebars, sidebars.... I am just having too much fun focusing on all the little things before cramming everything into a case (or am I just procrastinating? Who knows?) Before I started this project, I was reading through all the old worklogs I could find, and was very inspired by a...

You're reading all of those voltages in reference to 12V, that's why your readings are wack. Those are the differences between the output voltages and 12V. You want to read all of the voltages in reference to ground: black probe goes to ground, red goes to the voltage you want to read.

There is hope yet! Wiis are very hard to fully kill, there's likely just a strat solder ball or poor sanding somewhere, it's better to diagnose this one than grab a new one (better for learning diagnostic skills, at least).

You just want to make sure you're getting the proper voltages from the PSU and that they are the same on the Wii (wires can add a slight voltage drop, but your lines are pretty short so I don't think that would be a problem). If any of the main voltage lines are shorted, the regulators should...

It helps to double check your resistances on the voltage lines once everything is hooked up. You're only really looking for dead shorts that shouldn't be there. Also be sure to check all of your voltages, both at the PSU side and the Wii side, while it's powered on. Perhaps something is up with...

Dude this is AWESOME! This is exactly what I had in mind when brainstorming a controller PCB for my portable-to-be. I love how everything is integrated either on the main board or through a simple FFC; so little manual wiring! I'm definitely going to take some design cues from this, very inspiring!