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So I am unsure of whats wrong now. After alot of troubleshooting I gave up on the board and trimmed a new wii except it had the exact same reaction as the previous wii. I cleaned the board and verified all my solder joints were fine but its still not working properly. Mind you I still can tell...

yep I double checked its getting 3.3v and when I was at it I changed the composite location and cleaned the board but that didnt seem to fix anything.

Ok did a quick swap to the pms's u10. Didn't fix the video issue though sadly

So bluetooth isn't disabled its just that the chip is left out of the trim. Luckily, it can just be relocated but there are 2 difficult connections needed for it to work. Just scroll down to bluetooth section in the trim guide and itl teach you all about it...

Alright I routed the 3.3v wire and the output leg doesnt read any voltage on startup

So the ground blog was a little sketchy on the multimeter so I fixed that and that wasnt the solution. So I checked the u10 chip and its not receiving 3.3v. I assume my next course of action would be to route some copper wire from the 3.3v leg to a 3.3v spot on the board right?

Now if my memory serves me right you can find the button to go to the default wii menu inside the c-stick menu. Though, you will need bluetooth installed on the wii or else you will get a black screen.

I cleaned the board up and tried checking u10 for 3.3v and I coudn't get any voltage on my multimeter. In this case I would just swap out the u10 chip for u9 correct?

yeah I tried both input 1 and 2

Alright so Im back at the grind. After a little while a new pms lite finally shipped and its working good but there is a slight hiccup. I've got the age old problem of the wii not showing any video. Though, I can tell it still boots from the gpu/cpu is getting hot when batteries are plugged in...

Hey its been a hot minute. So quick question here if I perhaps had put a battery in and the whole project started smoking would there be anything left thats salvageable. I think its pretty safe to assume the pms and wii were killed off at my screw up but are there any boards that might not have...

Ok that makes sense thanks. So for testing purposes I would just wire up gnd and AV-CVBS1 and when I make the switch over to vga everything can be wired in thin twisted wire. Alright thanks for the tip.

So its been about a week since I last updated. In the past week I hadn't done as much as I hoped. Mostly due to my 3d printer deciding to stop working. But anyways I managed to finish populating the controller pcbs with the stuff I forgot (speakers and buttons). I also managed to wire up all the...

The rvl-pms just has a bunch of quality of life features to improve your portable like battery overcharge protection, plug and play, battery level indicator, thermal protection, etc. You very well can just use regular pth regulators to power your Wii as they will work even if they are a little...

I believe that to go to the Wii home menu with RVLoader you need a Bluetooth chip to be soldered to the board. Without Bluetooth it just defaults to a black screen.

A little tidbit of info is that this black piece can be pretty easily removed with a pair of cutting pliers and then the area of the board that it was on can be trimmed.

So ever since about September I have been hyperfixated on portables and console modding. Finally, here I am building my own. As for my first time doing this I have decided to build a Ashida. After a bunch of research I'm at 90% 80% 75% of understanding on how to build this. Anyways for my first...

Personally I just use a half face painting respirator I found in my garage. Like this one...

CrazyGadget does a trimming service so your best bet would be to dm him. https://www.bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/wii-trimming-service.4992/