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Hi, first of all I wanna say you did an amazing job on this project. I'm about to order the PCB's and looking on the github under the "PCBs" section it says for the Xii Ultra Flex 1.12mm thickness and for the Trigger PCB 1.16mm. I think you meant to write 0.12mm and 1.6mm. Is that correct?

Did you create that TNY-SKROM PCB yourself?

Both. There are two different mounts you can print.

Like Stiches said, as long as it fits in the case and has the right value you are good.

It depends on which components do you mean.

You have to enable "Force Progressive" and then press "A" a few seconds after the game has launched.

Yea unlike the Fujiflex, the AVE HDMI doesn't have a "MODE" solder bridge. You have to route a wire from the "MODE" via to 3V3. Although it still should output video in 480i without it.

@YveltalGriffin tried to do his own custom pcb but I think it's much easier to trim the board. Here is the worklog: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/nintendo-vegas.5052/

Thanks for the link. @supertazon You are probably right. The RVL-PMS 2 and RVL-DD are both a nice upgrade to the V2. I'll wait for the V3.

Nice job, that looks like a nice successor to the G-Boy. I also like the portable sensor bar. I was about to build one myself but it seems that the screen is unavailable at the moment. I hope it comes back in stock again.

Did you check the resistance for all voltages?

Everything you need is on the github page: https://github.com/CrazyGadgetMods/PSU-Plus

I can't remember the noctua fan being a tight fit. The connector will be cut anyway because you solder it directly to the PMS.

Can you post some pictures of your solder work?

No I used this programmer: https://www.mouser.at/ProductDetail/Olimex-Ltd/AVR-ISP-MK2?qs=C3feHhap9Pq3CI42wNu37Q%3D%3D&srsltid=AfmBOoqwlfBA3shQch_LVVzF00bP8o0yQZiRq5CVWP3A3Otv7Q3_ASYF

Congratz, as someone who also did two of them, I know the pain when it comes to trimming those chips. I "accidentally" built two because I initially thought I killed the chips while trimming them but later found out that the 80-pin connector wasn't properly soldered. Excellent job, well done.

Sure there you go.

Since I did my first Ashida, I always wanted to try the OMEGA trim and what better way to do it than with a GC Nano. I decided to do the V1.1 because when @Wesk released the V2 I already ordered the parts. But I will maybe do a V2 sometimes too. So here are some pictures of the build process...

It depends on the use case but in this case you have only 3.3V. So you can even take 10V or 6.3V caps but it is not much difference in price.

For the capacitors you can just take one which are 16V rated. U13 is this one: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/microchip-technology/PIC16F15324-I-JQ/6691274 For U14 you already found the right one. J2 are the pins where you program your PIC, you can just solder wires directly to it...