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Hehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehe Brass GnuCkles

Running the RVLoader installer also installs Priiloader and all the required CIOS modules. Afaik there isn't any functional or compatibility reason to not install bootmii as an IOS during HackMii installation, but it can be skipped without issue. Bootmii is mostly used as partial brick...

Yeah those figures are within margin

That flex breakout is big brain

Grats on the first try trim!

I would recommend not trying a U portable for your first project. It's really fiddly and requires a decent level of soldering skill

This idea has been floated before, but I don't remember anyone completing such a design yet. You could be the first to do it

Did you check that the NTC thermistor hasn't fused closed?

Did you disconnect the 5v wire when you added the 3.3v wire?

A mistake could kill the screen, yes. Removing the inductor isn't a bad idea, but you should first test to be sure that 3.3v input is enough to run the screen. If it works as expected, then you can remove the inductor

IIRC the BT module needs to be present for the Mii channel to work correctly, unless Aurelio has patched it and i missed that note

Supplying 3.3v to the 3.3v inductor *should* work

W0t?

The purple lines are the OMGWTF trim, the yellow lines are the LMAOv1. Afaik the LMAOv1 lines are the minimum required footprint of a trim aside from the NAND relocation. You could save *some* space, but personally I really don't recommend it. You'll end up with a very annoying troubleshooting...

Calls to the disc drive are made when launching Wii games and I believe some other softwares as well. You can boot the Wii without a disc drive, but you won't be able to run most things

If you don't need/want to keep the disc drive functional, you can remove the drive housing and just keep the little daughterboard PCB in the drive that connects to the motherboard via a ribbon cable and a JST connector. Keeping the disc drive daughterboard connected will trick the Wii into...

To make it more affordable for simple builds, the PMS-Lite doesn't have a 1.8v regulator onboard. It instead consumes 1.8v from the Wii's LDO to run some of its logic processes, so a reading of 0v on the 1.8v line when the PMS-Lite is disconnected from the Wii is normal.

The system can't tell whether a port is wired unless a controller is plugged in. You can wire in the one port, or several. It's up to your use case. As for the control switching, only controller port 1 will work for single player games and for GC2Wiimote bluetooth emulation. You can use a...

MOSO is probably a typo for MISO, and VCC is your voltage input which judging from the onboard linear reg might be 5v. Where did you buy this thing? You might want to switch to using a normal microSD to SD adapter