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Well no worries. Thanks for the reply at any rate. I have gone ahead and ordered a new board, but it looks like this is going back on the shelf for awhile now unfortunately.

Is the circled pad (green wire) an acceptable ground point assuming 5V (blue wire) is going to the inductor pad?

Hi all, Last August I mistakenly shorted my 5V to GND on the GC 2 of my maybe 75% complete G-wii and fried basically all the components. At that point the 5” VGA screen still worked, but back then I had to shelve the project and now that I have some time I rewire PMS and PD to find my screen is...

I rewired everything again before testing the unit. It should be less exposed now. I have a new problem though, my screen will not turn on. I have wired 5V to the inductor and ground pads I used previously when it was working, but the screen does not power on, despite reading 4.9V on the...

I shelved this project several months ago after moving to a new place that didn't have enough space for a workbench, but now that I am back at my parent's house for winter break (I'm a grad student with less and less time these days) I really want to give this a sustained effort over the next...

Would you suggest taping each wire individually with electrical tape to better insulate it? Or do I need to redo all the connections from scratch, I’m worried at this point about missing a step from doing everything out of order and multiple times.

I’m planning to tape the up at the end, so far none if them are shorting. I want to ensure I’m making connection though. I’ve checked all the resistances one by one with the multimeter and they are good, so no issue with cold solder. I am using a resin core solder and I havenot had any issue...

More progress. I've wired U10 and the thermristor along with 3.3V, 1.8V, 1.15V and 1V plus ground. If I am correct, I have to wire still Data +/-, Serial clock and data plus RGB HV sync for VGA plus audio plus the data line on the GC+ (along with the shoulder buttons which have not been wired...

That's way less steps, but it doesn't make the biggest challenge of actually soldering the magnet wire to the U10 via any easier.

My resistances mostly match the trim resistance thread, though 1.15V over gnd is about twice what most others got. I'm assuming it is fine and moving on. I've also included final trim images. Since I'm using the PMS-2 with U10 emulation, what do I need to do as far as prepping for the emulator...

To answer my own question, it looks like it is 100% not a problem. Thanks again Stiches for answering earlier, I'm just trying to be extra careful as this is wii #3/4 depending on how I count. https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/how-far-can-you-take-the-omgwtf-trim.5349/

Just to double check before proceeding, is this a serviceable trim?

I’ve highlighted it here. I’ve already bought a replacement wii though, I guess it will be for later.

Is this trace (C94/R59 I think) critical enough to mean that this board is done?

I got a new PMS-PD and PMS-2 from 4-layer, but after changing out the boards, the unit still will not boot. Do you think the wii itself is dead or is the issue now the video lines possibly? Is there a way to test the wii to find out if it is still good or not? EDIT: If I test resistances on...

Just out of curiosity, what current would I need to output if I was going to go this route? I have some variable regulators which I should be able to dial into 1.8V, but the current limit on them is low if I remember correctly.

Good looking out! Was able to order from 4 latyer tech.

Is there any way to use a PMS-lite and get 1.8V without LDO?

Yeah I removed the LDO already

Anyone have a spare RVL-PMS-2 that they would be willing to sell to me? Or is there any idea on the lead time for the chip to be restocked at 4layer tech?