Ashida Wii Portable

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Now that I've painted my shell and added a clear coat, I think I'm ready to start assembling things.

I'm starting out by wiring up the driver board (newer blue one, rather than the older green one). If anyone can let me know if I've got it right or wrong, that would be a big help!

Power Connections:
Per the instructions on the 4Layer webpage for the driver board, I removed the inductor, and soldered wires for 3.3V and Ground.​
I used 22 AWG braded wire. Yellow for 3.3V and Black for GND. I also removed any sockets that aren't needed in order to create more space.​
The plan is to solder the other ends to 3.3V and GND on the Wii board when it's time to wire it in.​
VGA Connections:
H/V Sync:​
I soldered wires onto the H and V pads. I used 36 AWG Enameled ('magnet') wire. I used different colors to keep them straight.​
The plan is to connect the other ends to the appropriate pins on the AVE chip when it's time to wire in the Wii board.​
RGB:​
I soldered signal/GND wires to the Blue/GND, Green/GND, and Red/GND pads. I used shielded wire that I harvested from the Wii and some other junk electronics.​
The shielding is soldered to the GND pads and the signal wires are soldered to Blue, Green, and Red.​
The plan is to solder the other ends to the appropriate vias near the AVE chip as outlined in the G-Boy instructions.​
Did I do anything wrong or am I missing anything? I realize the solder work is a bit sloppy, but I checked all connections with a multimeter and validated that I have continuity where I should have continuity and that none of the connections are bridged.

Thank you!
VgaDriverBoardWiring.jpeg

 
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Just wanted to call out something interesting about my SLS shell from PCBway. I just noticed that the area under the heat sink where you can route wires was solid and I couldn't get a wire through. Messing with it a bit, I realized it was still completely full of the PA-12 dust that is used in the SLS process. I was able to dig it all out with some picks and I think it's fine now. But it was a LOT of dust. Just something to be aware of if you decide to go with SLS.
30745FE6-5E06-4647-BE9E-9E07B7848A86.jpeg
 
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Hello, I was wondering if it is possible to charge the Ashida and play at the same time? Every time I am playing with my system it losses more power than its charging. Is it possible, or is just the nature of the beast?
 

Viilmo

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Hello, I was wondering if it is possible to charge the Ashida and play at the same time? Every time I am playing with my system it losses more power than its charging. Is it possible, or is just the nature of the beast?
It is possible, what charger are you using and what are the charging settings in RVLoader
 
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It is possible, what charger are you using and what are the charging settings in RVLoader
Hello, I have the following charging settings in RVLoader.

Charging Current: 1024
Termination Current: 128
Precharge Current: 128
Charge Voltage: 4200

forgot to add the chargers I am using, USB C connected to computer, Nintendo Switch Charger and an Anker IQ Nano II
 

Stitches

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Hello, I have the following charging settings in RVLoader.

Charging Current: 1024
Termination Current: 128
Precharge Current: 128
Charge Voltage: 4200

forgot to add the chargers I am using, USB C connected to computer, Nintendo Switch Charger and an Anker IQ Nano II
A USB port on a computer is never going to supply enough juice for charge and play. The Anker supply probably can, but you need to boost the charging current to at least 2.5A
 
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A USB port on a computer is never going to supply enough juice for charge and play. The Anker supply probably can, but you need to boost the charging current to at least 2.5A
Thank you for your help. My system is just not charging, might be I let the battery die and its not charging, I will try to figure out what is wrong....
 
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Stitches

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Thank you for your help. My system is just not charging, might be I let the battery die and its not charging, I will try to figure out what is wrong....
If you make a new thread and provide clear photos of your PMS and PD wiring, we may be able to help
 
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It's been a long wait, that wait is now over...

Get comfortable, make sure headphones are placed firmly on your head and prepare for a little introductory video to a portable that previously only existed in memes and dreams:


(4k and fullscreen recommended)




I could take full credit but in reality the Ashida was a community effort, either directly or indirectly.
It would not have been possible without the great minds we have giving back to the portablizing community.

Features:

  • OMGWTF (Basic) trim for easy trimming.
  • 5 inch 16:9 display with support for a stock VGA controller or @Aurelio's Direct Drive boards.
  • Everything you'd expect from a stock GameCube controller.
  • Dual 35x35x10mm heat sinks (or a single 35x70x10mm) and axial fan, providing enhanced cooling while being whisper quiet.
  • Dual Z buttons to take advantage of additional GC2Wiimote features.
  • Dual 21700 Batteries, giving up to 3.5 hours of potential play time (10,000mah)
  • Custom Controller and Audio interface boards, designed and supplied by 4 Layer Technologies.

**************************

All the required boards can be purchased from 4 Layer Technologies: https://4layertech.com/collections/all
Further assembly documentation and instructions can also be found at: https://4layertech.com/products/ashida-pcb-set


**************************

It was intended for everyone building an Ashida to use IPS panels along with Aurelio's Direct Drive board, unfortunately due to the current global chip shortage that just isn't possible for the launch. A fallback solution screen and driver board has been provided in the BOM in the meantime. I highly suggest that when the option becomes available to upgrade to Direct Drive for optimal picture clarity and additional features.

BOM (supplied by 4LayerTech): Ashida BOM

Buttons, membranes and other controller parts can be salvaged from any GC controller, official or 3rd party (as long as they look original).

Included in the 3D print downloads are the base, full resolution files. These models are large and will take low spec PC's a long time to slice.

I've also included re-meshed, optimized quality files. These are much easier on PC's and are optimized enough to be uploaded to 3D printing services like PCBWay. Although they are lower quality, once printed and actually in your hands you'd be hard-pressed noticing the difference between the optimized res and full resolution files.

3MF's have also been included for optimal print settings if printing with an FDM printer.
Total filament usage is around half a kilo and about 40 hours of print time.

Optimized files can be downloaded here: Ashida Optimized Files

Full resolution files can be downloaded here: Ashida Full Resolution Files

Mounts, buttons, etc can be downloaded here: Ashida Misc Part Files

BOM: Ashida BOM
hi

great project!
what kind of filament do you use to have such great result?
i also have seen clear blue case but i cant imagine to have such cristal print.

regards
 
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Question about the D+ and D- USB data connections from the PMS-PD to the Wii mobo. I see in the USB section of the Definitive Wii Trimming Guide that there are two differential pairs of USB data lines that must be connected. Each of the two differential pairs contain one D+ line and one D- line. I see that each pair must be twisted to help reduce interference. I think I get all of that. And I see where I need to solder the wires on the Wii mobo. But I'm not sure about how to connect the wires on the PMS-PD. Do both D+ wires get soldered to the single D+ pad and both D- wires get soldered to the single D- pad?
 

CrazyGadget

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Question about the D+ and D- USB data connections from the PMS-PD to the Wii mobo. I see in the USB section of the Definitive Wii Trimming Guide that there are two differential pairs of USB data lines that must be connected. Each of the two differential pairs contain one D+ line and one D- line. I see that each pair must be twisted to help reduce interference. I think I get all of that. And I see where I need to solder the wires on the Wii mobo. But I'm not sure about how to connect the wires on the PMS-PD. Do both D+ wires get soldered to the single D+ pad and both D- wires get soldered to the single D- pad?
You only solder to one set of the USB vias, doesn't matter which one.
 
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You only solder to one set of the USB vias, doesn't matter which one.
Ah, okay. Got it. Yeah, based on the Gii Boy instructions, it seemed like that might be the case, but I wasn't sure. And I guess that makes sense. There are two data line pairs on the Wii motherboard because there are two USB ports on the Wii. But the PMS-PD only has one USB port. Thanks again!
 
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Another day, another question. The data sheet for the RVL-PMS Lite says that the 5V pad should connect to 'USB and/or other 5V components'. If I'm using the PMS-PD for USB, I don't need 5V from the RVL-PMS Lite, correct? The Wii board doesn't require 5V and none of the other components in a basic Ashida build do either, right? Basically, I don't need to connect anything to 5V, right? Thanks for any help!
 

Stitches

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Another day, another question. The data sheet for the RVL-PMS Lite says that the 5V pad should connect to 'USB and/or other 5V components'. If I'm using the PMS-PD for USB, I don't need 5V from the RVL-PMS Lite, correct? The Wii board doesn't require 5V and none of the other components in a basic Ashida build do either, right? Basically, I don't need to connect anything to 5V, right? Thanks for any help!
The UP pad is connected to the 5v rail IIRC. If you wire the PD up according to the 4layertech diagrams, it will get the 5v it needs and you won't need to worry about it
 
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