Ashida Wii Portable

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Hey Guys! I've had my Ashida working for several months now (thanks again to Wesk, Stiches, and everyone else that helped me!). I've recently decided to display my collection of handhelds so I bought some stands for them. I'd like a stand for the Ashida, too. I tried just sending the 'Ashida holder' STL file to PCBWay, but they're saying the 'ASHIDA' lettering on the front is to shallow to print properly. They've asked me to change the depth, but I have no clue how to do that, and hours of watching Fusion 360 tutorials hasn't changed that.

Does anyone have any experience with printing that file? Or any suggestions for a different stand? Thanks!
 

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I discovered the Ashida through a YT video from GingerOfOz, Congrats to Wesk and the community for this astoundingly amazing job !
I am already into modding (mostly SNES N64 and GC), but portalizing is new to me, and as a GC fan the Ashida represents the Holy Grail, so it is now my current project.
I have gathered a lot of technical information through the forum, and although there is no step by step walkthrough, all the required information can be found quite easily.
I am currently proceeding with the orders of the PCBs and parts.
While searching for an alternative reference to the potentiometer wheel for the sound volume, (I don't want to be charged 20€ for a 1 or 2€ part), I noticed that the BOM reference is a linear potentiometer. I would have expected a logarithmic one since it's for audio, is there a particular reason behind this choice ? I'm pretty sure I can select a logarithmic one without any trouble as soon as I keep the same resistance and geometry, do you confirm ?
 

Stitches

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I discovered the Ashida through a YT video from GingerOfOz, Congrats to Wesk and the community for this astoundingly amazing job !
I am already into modding (mostly SNES N64 and GC), but portalizing is new to me, and as a GC fan the Ashida represents the Holy Grail, so it is now my current project.
I have gathered a lot of technical information through the forum, and although there is no step by step walkthrough, all the required information can be found quite easily.
I am currently proceeding with the orders of the PCBs and parts.
While searching for an alternative reference to the potentiometer wheel for the sound volume, (I don't want to be charged 20€ for a 1 or 2€ part), I noticed that the BOM reference is a linear potentiometer. I would have expected a logarithmic one since it's for audio, is there a particular reason behind this choice ? I'm pretty sure I can select a logarithmic one without any trouble as soon as I keep the same resistance and geometry, do you confirm ?
I don't know for sure why a linear pot was selected, but I imagine it was probably for simplicity and availability. Afaik the pot is just used to generate a differential voltage signal that the PIC reads and uses to determine the output volume, rather than directly interacting with the audio lines like inline logarithmic pots are often used for. You can use a logarithmic pot if you really want to, it'll just have an odd volume curve because the firmware was written with a linear voltage plot in mind.
 

Wesk

Undervolting....
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Potential bug, or maybe my own incompetence:

Metroid Prime Trilogy (Wii) is unplayable after you actually launch one of the titles.

The game launches fine from RVLoader, but after navigating menus with 0 issues and starting the game.

You get the blue screen (with the VGA text on screen) then whatever "built-in" iso/wbfs file launches. Due to this, the GC2Wiimote config no longer matches the game that you're currently playing. So after the opening/intro cutscene plays you can't actually play.

Not sure if anyone else has had this issue and somehow fixed it, or if I'm the first to have it happen.

Hopefully this is an easy fix.
This is an RVLoader issue, not Ashida related.
 
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This is an RVLoader issue, not Ashida related.
Ya, sorry I searched RVLoader on google and clicked the first link that had it. Somehow ended up here and neglected to read the thread title before posting. I can move my post to the proper place and delete it. Thanks!
 
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I'm kind of a hacking noob and I'm trying to choose a fan
If I go for the 40mm Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX do I need to something extra or does it work in the same exact way as the fan mentioned in the BOM?
 

Stitches

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I'm kind of a hacking noob and I'm trying to choose a fan
If I go for the 40mm Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX do I need to something extra or does it work in the same exact way as the fan mentioned in the BOM?
The Ashida's fan slots are designed to accept two 35x35x10mm axial fans. 40x40mm fans will not fit unless you modify the case in CAD

Nevermind, Wesk has reminded me that there's an alt version of the case files attached to the main post that's designed for the 40mm noctua fans
 
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Yeah, I'm using the alt model and am more concerned about the power draw, since I can't find anywhere if the noctua fan also uses 5VDC
All of the documents I can find on the fan say the operating voltage is 12V
 
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Stitches

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Yeah, I'm using the alt model and am more concerned about the power draw, since I can't find anywhere if the noctua fan also uses 5VDC
All of the documents I can find on the fan say the operating voltage is 12V
Most if not all fans of that kind support DC control, which uses voltage modulation to control the speed of the fan. 5v is within the control range for 12v axial fans, so basically all 12v fans will run off 5v just fine. They'll just spin slower (and quieter) is all, and the power consumption is negligible. The 12v operating voltage just lets you know that the fan will spin at full speed at 12v DC in if there's no PWM signal.
 
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Hi. I bought an Ashida off a modder. The battery only lasts about an hour max.

Is there anyway to charge my Ashida from a portable device such as a power pack?

I don't know much about voltage, amps or what I'd need cable wise.

It's not ideal but the last time I opened the thing up I had a hell of a job getting it back together and I'd sooner use something external if I can.

The charger that it came with is 12.6v 3A psu with a DC connector.

Cheers
 
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KiWii Portable (In progress)
Is there anyway to charge my Ashida from a portable device such as a power pack?
You should be able to charge it off a normal 5v power bank yes, it uses the USB-C port and can charge anywhere between 5v and 15v but not beyond that.

I don't know much about voltage, amps or what I'd need cable wise.
The amps in a charger is how much current it can deliver at max, so it's based of the max current the device you charge can take, (ex. a 5v 4 amp charger that is charging a phone that does a max of 2 amps is just fine, it just won't charge at the current the charger is rated for.)

EDIT: Just re-read the comment, by DC jack do you mean it uses a barrel plug? Or is it USB-C?
 
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Yes. It is from Ali Express. It has a DC jack barrel plug. The pictures show a usb c but when it came it has a DC jack.

Not the first time I've been ripped off unfortunately.

So a normal power pack and Usb C to DC will do as long as it's 5V output?
 
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Yes. It is from Ali Express. It has a DC jack barrel plug. The pictures show a usb c but when it came it has a DC jack.

Not the first time I've been ripped off unfortunately.

So a normal power pack and Usb C to DC will do as long as it's 5V output?
Unfortunately no a simple power bank probably won't be the solution, if it is indeed a barrel jack plug then you can either find an equivalent charger, or use the one you currently have. Sounds like the way this portable was set is that it will require 12.6V input.
 
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So a normal power pack and Usb C to DC will do as long as it's 5V output?
I suppose it should be clarified this portable sounds like a 3s lithium setup, that 12.6v charger is likely a dedicated lithium bat charger. 3.7v X 3 is a nominal 11.1v but max charge at 4.2 per cell is 12.6v.
 
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Right. Thanks so if that's cotrect are there any portable options to charge OTG? Also because of the low battery life what mah are we talking about possibly? They've advertised the battery life as 2-3 hours but I barely get 1 to be honest.
 
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