Worklog Nintendo Wii Classic Edition

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Low, but not zero. If you have any compressed air, a good long blast around the dies and RAM is worth a try
Already tried, but still no luck. Is there a way to confirm if my U10 relocation was successful? Trying to cross stuff off the list.
 

Stitches

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Already tried, but still no luck. Is there a way to confirm if my U10 relocation was successful? Trying to cross stuff off the list.
You can use a multimeter to check the legs. The 3 ground legs should all have continuity with ground, the input leg should be getting 3.3v, and the output leg should be outputting 3.3v.

Btw did you end up cleaning all the burnt flux off of the board?
 
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Is it possible to kill a PMS Plus by accidentally bridging the Vin and GND pads while hooked up to power?
 

Stitches

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You're more likely to kill the Wii by doing that I think
 
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You're more likely to kill the Wii by doing that I think
Can I hook up the PSU by itself to a power supply and test the voltages to ensure it still works? I’m alright with having to replace the Wii but I really don’t want to shell out another $45 on a new PSU :(
 

Nold

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Some of your solder joints look pretty good (the on the PSU mostly), others look like they could need some more heat/solder/flux

6-layers can be bitchy.. make sure to sand very very well atleast up to 800~1k grid. even then the lowest voltage can have like 6 ohms to GND which should be fine.

Also clean that dirty boy with some IPA & a brush.
 
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Yes, you can just hook it up to a bench power supply and check your output voltages.
Turns out I’m just a paranoid idiot. Neither the Wii nor the PMS was burnt out. I must’ve just freaked out the Wii’s original power supply. Anyway, here’s an update. I tested my U10 relocation as Stitches instructed, and everything appears to be in working order so at least we can cross that off the list.
Some of your solder joints look pretty good (the on the PSU mostly), others look like they could need some more heat/solder/flux

6-layers can be bitchy.. make sure to sand very very well atleast up to 800~1k grid. even then the lowest voltage can have like 6 ohms to GND which should be fine.

Also clean that dirty boy with some IPA & a brush.
Should I try resanding even if I previously got semi-correct readings? Here are the measurements I’m currently getting.
550C24A3-5084-49BF-98CC-61234D8CF1E5.jpeg
Just for reference, I previously sanded up to 600 grit. I’ll also track down some IPA that’s a little stronger than 70% to try and clean up the flux.
 
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those readings look good to me
So I shouldn't have to worry about resanding it? Also, is it possible to patch out Wifi after you've made the trim (I know you'd have to wire up a Wifi module first to allow the Wii to boot, but after you've loaded into RVLoader, is it possible to patch out Wifi from the menu on an already trimmed Wii)? I'm fairly certain I remembered to patch out Wifi while installing RVLoader, but my stupid brain doesn't remember for sure and I might just try and wire it up as a last resort.
 
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Um, we might have a problem… I was cleaning off the board to test it, when I accident pulled too hard on my 12v audio amp line, ripping it from the chip itself, disconnecting the foot of the chip and pulling out the trace. Thankfully, the trace itself is still connected to the board, but does that even matter? Is this component necessary (I’m assuming it is) and if so is there any way to repair this?
C2255940-7567-458E-AAA3-A6D07D549A47.jpeg
 

CrazyGadget

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That's the audio amp, you'll need it for what you're doing. You can either file away at the package to expose the lead and solder to that, or you can remove it and replace it with a new one. If you want to go with the latter, hit me up! I have more than a couple to spare and can send them for the cost of shipping!
 
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That's the audio amp, you'll need it for what you're doing. You can either file away at the package to expose the lead and solder to that, or you can remove it and replace it with a new one. If you want to go with the latter, hit me up! I have more than a couple to spare and can send them for the cost of shipping!
Thanks! I’ll try the filing method when I get the chance. Is it required for the Wii to boot or can I still plug in power in its current state to try and test it?
 
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Okay, so I cleaned off the board with some 100% IPA and redid all my solder joints so they’re in order, but still no boot. It’s the same as always: the fan powers on and the chips get warm. Just for the heck of it, should I try and remove the LDO and wire up the 1.8v line from the PMS? And besides that, are there any last ideas for me to try?
 
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I HAVE A WORKING TRIM!!!
775DEB9A-D9A9-45E6-8B75-5CD20141239B.jpeg

Despite all the time I had invested in the previous Wii, I decided to start from scratch with this new one you see before you. And I guess God was willing that it work this time! The project is officially in full go mode, and I wouldn’t be here right now if it weren’t for all you who’ve helped me thus far. Thank you all, Stitches and CrazyGadget especially. And now that I can confirm the Wii works, I can finally purchase some of the materials I need to finish this project. But in typical “me” fashion, I have a few question. Regarding powering the board, I plan to use both a USB C PD board (this one specifically) and a 5v to 12v converter (this one) to maximize compatibility from different USB C cables (PD or not). Has anyone ever tried this before or can confirm whether it’ll work or not? So grateful to God be back on track with this build.
 

Stitches

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I HAVE A WORKING TRIM!!!
View attachment 30908
Despite all the time I had invested in the previous Wii, I decided to start from scratch with this new one you see before you. And I guess God was willing that it work this time! The project is officially in full go mode, and I wouldn’t be here right now if it weren’t for all you who’ve helped me thus far. Thank you all, Stitches and CrazyGadget especially. And now that I can confirm the Wii works, I can finally purchase some of the materials I need to finish this project. But in typical “me” fashion, I have a few question. Regarding powering the board, I plan to use both a USB C PD board (this one specifically) and a 5v to 12v converter (this one) to maximize compatibility from different USB C cables (PD or not). Has anyone ever tried this before or can confirm whether it’ll work or not? So grateful to God be back on track with this build.
Yeah that would work. The pre-amp and sensor bar use a very small amount of current, so most any boost regulator will do
 
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Yeah that would work. The pre-amp and sensor bar use a very small amount of current, so most any boost regulator will do
its also worth noting that a sensor bar can work with 5v (you just gotta remove 4 of the IR leds in series to reduce the voltage). as for the pre-amp, i'm not sure since i didnt use it on my micro (i used an analog2hdmi anyway). But yeah the boost converter is likely the better option anyway. GL!
 
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its also worth noting that a sensor bar can work with 5v (you just gotta remove 4 of the IR leds in series to reduce the voltage). as for the pre-amp, i'm not sure since i didnt use it on my micro (i used an analog2hdmi anyway). But yeah the boost converter is likely the better option anyway. GL!
I was planning on using an analogtoHDMI myself, actually! Hope you don’t mind answering, but how good would you say it’s video quality is and is there any noticeable latency?
 
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I was planning on using an analogtoHDMI myself, actually! Hope you don’t mind answering, but how good would you say it’s video quality is and is there any noticeable latency?
It's video quality is decent. its obviously not gonna be as good as an AVE-HDMI (which inputs raw gpu digital data instead of the output of the ave), but it's much more convenient than having to solder the AVE-HDMI flex board. It's also considerably cheaper. As for latency, i'm not a smash player, but i didnt notice any latency. I'd take it any day over VGA/YPbPr on a micro imo.
 
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