PS2 Ultra Slim

[echan42]

Terminando mi proyecto… aun falta instalar el methyline para controles bluetooth y el puerto hdmi

es el modelo de lividxphos? Tiene buena pinta y me gusta el botón. En la descripción del proyecto menciona un ventilador alternativo silencioso, se ha incorporado ya? Están publicados los stl?

Is it lividxphos's model? It looks good and I like the fact it keeps the original button.
I'm the project description there's an alternate fan listed, is this incorporated yet? Are the models public?

 

[Jcrave30]

Hola no! Este proyecto es el mio lo tengo ya hace varios meses en publicaciones anteriores cuando lo empece, el ventilador dejare el que trae la consola

 

[cui457]

Hello all. Quick question, my board doesn't have a door close sensor on the board, it's a 79001 board so I should be good but idk what to do? Thank you in advance

 

[FatBaldDad]

I used an "L-shaped" piece of a project PCB board and fashioned it as shown below, with a PCB push button. You’ll need to shorten the plunger for your power button. I’ve done this on three of my builds, so I know the feeling when you pop open the shell and think, "uhh...", ha ha ha!!

If you're interested, I can get you the part numbers for the PCB, push button, and some more pics.

This stuff is so much fun!!!

who am I kidding.... I can't help myself I have to share all the info I have.

- Cut the PCB into a 5 via by 5 via square.
- Cut from the square a 2 via by 3 via (as shown in pic below)
- After the board is all sanded I used a dab of glue to hold it in place to check fitment and also solder in the solid copper wire on the top and bottom.
- Shorten the plunger with some sandpaper or make a shorter plunger.
- The PB part number is BG-US-91570-US (bag of 100 on Amazon for around $6)
- The project PCB boards on Amazon for around $10

 

[DoeKe]

I used an "L-shaped" piece of a project PCB board and fashioned it as shown below, with a PCB push button. You’ll need to shorten the plunger for your power button. I’ve done this on three of my builds, so I know the feeling when you pop open the shell and think, "uhh...", ha ha ha!!

If you're interested, I can get you the part numbers for the PCB, push button, and some more pics.

This stuff is so much fun!!!

View attachment 35772

View attachment 35771

who am I kidding.... I can't help myself I have to share all the info I have.

- Cut the PCB into a 5 via by 5 via square.
- Cut from the square a 2 via by 3 via (as shown in pic below)
- After the board is all sanded I used a dab of glue to hold it in place to check fitment and also solder in the solid copper wire on the top and bottom.
- Shorten the plunger with some sandpaper or make a shorter plunger.
- The PB part number is BG-US-91570-US (bag of 100 on Amazon for around $6)
- The project PCB boards on Amazon for around $10

View attachment 35773
View attachment 35774
View attachment 35779

View attachment 35777

This actually helps me quite a lot. I personally will be doing this mod myself, and have ordered a 79001, and was thinking about replacing the button anyway, and this helps me with the size of button needed, and is helpful for when i get the system if the board I end up getting doesn't even have the sensor. Makes preparing much easier when buying all the parts.

 

[TizzyBac]

So I got really hyped to do this project with my Resin Printer and ordered a ps2 slim 79k off ebay as is for like $10.. Hoping to get one that just had a bad drive. But the only thing wrong was just the power port needing a reflow. It never even had the Warranty sticker removed and zero dust on the inside though it is a bit ugly on the top. I know it sounds silly but should I just keep this one and just order another Ps2 slim that doesn't have a good cd drive since I feel it would be a waste. I'm going to print out the silent hill style model someone made.

 

[FatBaldDad]

So I got really hyped to do this project with my Resin Printer and ordered a ps2 slim 79k off ebay as is for like $10.. Hoping to get one that just had a bad drive. But the only thing wrong was just the power port needing a reflow. It never even had the Warranty sticker removed and zero dust on the inside though it is a bit ugly on the top. I know it sounds silly but should I just keep this one and just order another Ps2 slim that doesn't have a good cd drive since I feel it would be a waste. I'm going to print out the silent hill style model someone made.

Ooh, that is a hard one. What color is it?

 

[DavidT]

Is it normal that the 3v3 and ground points give continuity by measuring them with the multimeter? It happens to me in both control ports. I have tried in many ways to get the mx4sio to work, but when I barely do the installation it detects the opl, I It lets you enter a game, I play it for 20 or 30 minutes and it freezes, and when I turn the console back on it no longer detects the microSD, I have tried it with the microSD adapter and with an Arduino microSD module, also placing resistors between ACK and ground, 58 omnios and 100 omnios, and nothing has worked for me, I don't know if it is a problem with the board, the truth is I have tried everything, even doing the installation inside a memorycard and the same thing happened to me, it worked 1 once and it freezes, then it no longer recognizes me, through USB it happens to me that even after playing for a while the game freezes, I appreciate if someone can help me.
My microSD is a 128 GB Samsung Evo Select, my console is a 79001, board GH-061-51.

 

[FatBaldDad]

Is it normal that the 3v3 and ground points give continuity by measuring them with the multimeter? It happens to me in both control ports. I have tried in many ways to get the mx4sio to work, but when I barely do the installation it detects the opl, I It lets you enter a game, I play it for 20 or 30 minutes and it freezes, and when I turn the console back on it no longer detects the microSD, I have tried it with the microSD adapter and with an Arduino microSD module, also placing resistors between ACK and ground, 58 omnios and 100 omnios, and nothing has worked for me, I don't know if it is a problem with the board, the truth is I have tried everything, even doing the installation inside a memorycard and the same thing happened to me, it worked 1 once and it freezes, then it no longer recognizes me, through USB it happens to me that even after playing for a while the game freezes, I appreciate if someone can help me.
My microSD is a 128 GB Samsung Evo Select, my console is a 79001, board GH-061-51.
View attachment 35853

I recently checked a couple working 79k boards I have. I get 90-100 ohms between ground and 3V3. I am wondering if your having an issue with a filter cap, voltage divider/regulator. Not sure without digging into it further and not having any schematics..

 

[TizzyBac]

Ooh, that is a hard one. What color is it?

Silver, I still have it apart and have ordered the ElectronAnalog after I verified the device was working. Did anyone else use a different switch for the micro SD card adaptor or should I order the one from mouser That's snap to fit.

 

[DavidT]

I recently checked a couple working 79k boards I have. I get 90-100 ohms between ground and 3V3. I am wondering if your having an issue with a filter cap, voltage divider/regulator. Not sure without digging into it further and not having any schematics..

Thanks friend, it gives me the same reading, 98 ohms between 3v3 and ground, I do not have more advanced knowledge to know what is happening to my board, the mx4sio that I manufactured on a memory card worked for me on another console, so the problem must be my board.

 

[FatBaldDad]

I finally read through the entire thread. Wow, you guys are awesome! It’s incredible to see everyone helping each other and sharing their builds and ideas.

 

[FatBaldDad]

Here is my latest build, which I call... (dramatic pause) 'Blue Assimilation.' It's blue, and I mounted the mod chip on the outside to give it a 'taken over' look—kind of like the Borg. Get it? Anyway, it's not finished yet, I still have some polishing up to do.

 

[DoeKe]

Another dumb question in preparation to do this mod myself, and order all the parts needed, and I'm close to the point where I need to order the shell. But is the power button that goes through the O in the shell a separate piece? I don't see it on the 3D model, or a file for the piece to be printed. And i've not seen anything on the thread mentioning it. And I'll be ordering it through PCBWay once I do. I just want to make sure I'm not forgetting anything before I do.

I can always just order a generic power button off amazon to put on top and wire into the inside, i guess. But it would be much nicer if it were matching the rest of the console.

 

[FatBaldDad]

Yes, it is a separate piece. It’s a plunger that slides up and down inside the "O". If you go to the links in Tito's video on YouTube, it links back to this very thread from Wesk.

 

[DoeKe]

I found it. It was in the original v1.1 files zip file on the beginning of the thread. Not sure why I didn't look at that first.

 

[TizzyBac]

Here is my latest build, which I call... (dramatic pause) 'Blue Assimilation.' It's blue, and I mounted the mod chip on the outside to give it a 'taken over' look—kind of like the Borg. Get it? Anyway, it's not finished yet, I still have some polishing up to do.

View attachment 35975View attachment 35976View attachment 35977View attachment 35978View attachment 35979View attachment 35980

Very nice! I really like Wire management concept also!

 

[ratatoesk]

I made one! I combined the USB-C mod + HDMI mod together and I left the barrel jack in place too... always good to have options =)

Awsome Build! Working on the same since... well a long time, thanks to a dying fan, killing a fuse in the process. And I painted the Case:

I printed out the lettering of the stand in white PLA, and pressure fitted them in, and added a Diode to the USB input to drop the Voltage a little bit, and protect the circuit if someone connects the normal barrle jack to.

But, i have still a problem with the ElectroAnalog... the Picture is just noisy.

I already resoldert the cabels, changed the cables, isolated the cables with some distance to each other, to see if I need to add some shielding... but nothing was the solution. And now I dont really know, which next troubleshooting step I can take.

 

[Wesk]

Awsome Build! Working on the same since... well a long time, thanks to a dying fan, killing a fuse in the process. And I painted the Case:

I printed out the lettering of the stand in white PLA, and pressure fitted them in, and added a Diode to the USB input to drop the Voltage a little bit, and protect the circuit if someone connects the normal barrle jack to.

But, i have still a problem with the ElectroAnalog... the Picture is just noisy.

I already resoldert the cabels, changed the cables, isolated the cables with some distance to each other, to see if I need to add some shielding... but nothing was the solution. And now I dont really know, which next troubleshooting step I can take.

Don't link to image hosts, upload your images directly to BitBuilt.

 

[FatBaldDad]

@ ratatoesk

Whoa! nice work—that looks pretty sweet!

Looks like you got some dirty power. Where you getting power from? Hopefully the noise is not coming from your USBC mod supply.

I wanted to share my experience with the ElectronAnalog too. I had a similar issue recently because I was powering it with a voltage regulator that didn’t have a decoupling capacitor. I just moved to a different regulator for the 5V.

I typically reuse the chopped off USB port for an internal USB drive on my builds. The missing capacitor was the one that had to be removed when you made the cut. I was using the voltage regaultor for that port DOH!

Also, (You may alsready know this) Electron Shepherd suggests not using power from the A/V port. Instead, they recommend drawing power directly from a voltage regulator, as the A/V port doesn’t supply enough power for the ElectronAnalog.