PS2 Ultra Slim

[ratatoesk]

Don't link to image hosts, upload your images directly to BitBuilt.

Sry, don't know if it was because that was the first post from me, orI am just blind, didn't see/have the upload button. It is there now.

@ ratatoesk

Whoa! nice work—that looks pretty sweet!

Looks like you got some dirty power. Where you getting power from? Hopefully the noise is not coming from your USBC mod supply.

I wanted to share my experience with the ElectronAnalog too. I had a similar issue recently because I was powering it with a voltage regulator that didn’t have a decoupling capacitor. I just moved to a different regulator for the 5V.

I typically reuse the chopped off USB port for an internal USB drive on my builds. The missing capacitor was the one that had to be removed when you made the cut. I was using the voltage regaultor for that port DOH!

Also, (You may alsready know this) Electron Shepherd suggests not using power from the A/V port. Instead, they recommend drawing power directly from a voltage regulator, as the A/V port doesn’t supply enough power for the ElectronAnalog.

I was still on the A/V port (was following Titos Video, read the suggestion later, but forgot to change it). I am now using 5V from a regulator, no change. added a capacitor for filtration (16v 100uf), nope... changed the power input from usb to the original Powersupply... still noisy (and changed the HDMI Cable as the first step).
The output from the AV Port directly is fine.

 

[TizzyBac]

Sry, don't know if it was because that was the first post from me, orI am just blind, didn't see/have the upload button. It is there now.




I was still on the A/V port (was following Titos Video, read the suggestion later, but forgot to change it). I am now using 5V from a regulator, no change. added a capacitor for filtration (16v 100uf), nope... changed the power input from usb to the original Powersupply... still noisy (and changed the HDMI Cable as the first step).
The output from the AV Port directly is fine.

Have you tried a different location in your house? I used to have an issue with a guitar being in one particular room that would cause me to pick up radio waves and static sounds. Dealing with Analog signals can have very interesting effects when not blocked properly.

 

[TizzyBac]

@ ratatoesk

Whoa! nice work—that looks pretty sweet!

Looks like you got some dirty power. Where you getting power from? Hopefully the noise is not coming from your USBC mod supply.

I wanted to share my experience with the ElectronAnalog too. I had a similar issue recently because I was powering it with a voltage regulator that didn’t have a decoupling capacitor. I just moved to a different regulator for the 5V.

I typically reuse the chopped off USB port for an internal USB drive on my builds. The missing capacitor was the one that had to be removed when you made the cut. I was using the voltage regaultor for that port DOH!

Also, (You may alsready know this) Electron Shepherd suggests not using power from the A/V port. Instead, they recommend drawing power directly from a voltage regulator, as the A/V port doesn’t supply enough power for the ElectronAnalog.

I have a few of these I've had sitting in a drawer for a few years would this work as a voltage regulator for the ElectronAnalog

 

[FatBaldDad]

@Wesk
Is it OK to talk troubleshooting in this thread? I kind of feel like we should take this to a different thread.

@TizzyBac
I would definitely give that a go.

@ratatoesk
It would be good if you could get a scope on your power rails to see what’s going on.

Just like with anyone, I just want to throw some ideas out there that might seem obvious or basic. I don’t mean to discredit you in any way.

I’m assuming you don’t have this issue when you use the A/V port as is. If the ElectronAnalog is connected and you don’t see any noise using your A/V cables, it could be your ElectronAnalog adapter's HDMI output (though it could still be noise at the ElectronAnalog itself).

Have you tried disconnecting your USB-C power mod?

You did solder the analog jumper on the ElectronAnalog board?

Another thing to try is powering your ElectronAnalog adapter with a buck converter like what TizzyBac is showing then solder some RCA connectors to your ElectronAnalog board. Then test it on another device or even with this PS2.

Here’s an example:

I think you get the idea—test your ElectronAnalog on something else to make sure the issue isn’t originating from the adapter itself.

You also mentioned that you blew a fuse, I think in your first thread? What was happening when it blew?

I hope you can get this figured out!

 

[ratatoesk]

I tried it now in a metal enclosure to shield the ElectronAnalog, but the picture is still the same. Whether the analog pin is soldered or not, and even without the USB power mod soldered, nothing changed. So, I most likely think that the ElectronAnalog is at fault. However, I can only test it externally in about two days.

The fan fuse blew because the fan broke down, and the motor was trying to start, most likely drawing too much current.

 

[FatBaldDad]

Wow, I really mucked up my last response, thought I was responding to one person. I fixed my responses so it makes sense, Sorry!

 

[FatBaldDad]

I Finally Finished Blue Assimilation!
The other night, I wrapped up (dramatic pause) "Blue Assimilation." Just wanted to share some pics and talk about it here for a bit of post-build therapy—now that the thrill of the build is over. Any of you guys know what I mean?

Challenges & Learnings:
Putting the ModBo on the outside was a small challenge because I wanted the console to remain serviceable in the future (anyone can solder wires together, but future-proofing is key). However, the bigger challenge was getting the internal Blue Retro (HW2) installed to work how I envisioned.

Let me clarify: I wanted it to function like Gusse's Methylene mod. I missed the mark—because, well, he’s Gusse, and I’m FatBaldDad. That said, the port detection works really well (thanks to Helder’s Game Tech), and I can turn the console on and off.

Here’s what I’d like to improve: I want it to work like the newer PS3/4/5. A quick-press of the PlayStation button would reset the console with a chime, while a long-press would turn it on or off with a "hello" and "goodbye" chime. I learned that the Methylene mod uses its own Blue Retro firmware, which Gusse provides on his website.

For my next step, I plan to make a PIC board that interfaces with an ESP-WROOM-32 running DarthCloud’s latest Blue Retro firmware. I believe this will allow me to control the PS2 reset pad exactly how I want (yes, there will be some sweet chimage). This way, I can stick with DarthCloud’s latest Blue Retro release while customizing the functionality. Or just get a "Methylene" (sigh) I think the base is something like $45 the full is around $102 I thinks.

Let’s face it—the Ultra Slim needs Blue Retro. They’re just perfect together.

Upcoming Ideas for My Next Build:
I want to take a moment to again credit Wesk for this incredible design and highlight what a brilliant execution it truly is. From what I understand, he created it on a whim, and in doing so, he inspired a lot of people with what’s possible.

I want to be clear: by mentioning my ideas for changes, I’m not intending to discredit his work in any way. I’m not saying he did it wrong or that this is how it should be done. Rather, I see my work as continuing in a different direction. I hope my fellow builders can understand and appreciate what I’m trying to convey.

Just some ideas, I think some of you have already done some of these changes already.

• Add thread inserts: After opening it 100+ times, the threads wear out in the resin.
• Reuse the original power button board:
  • Keep Wesk’s circle design for the button but mount the reset/power button board underneath using a long ribbon cable to a breakout board located elsewhere and also a shorter plunger.
    • I feel that this would ease the pain for the times I end up with a board with no lid switch.
    • I understand the ElectronAnalog is under there but I would like to move that to the other side.
    • Increase clearance for the ElectronAnalog HDMI adapter (or move it over).
• Use the smaller slim hood ornament instead of the FAT.
• Increase motherboard clearance underneith:
  • Add more room for the Blue Retro ESP-WROOM-32 board and wires.
  • Also get some real estate available fo a raspberry in there somewhere to load games via SMB.
• Add memory card slot flaps: I’ve had trouble with this but think I have a solution.
• Include provisions for a docking station.
• Switch to the BitFunxMX4SIO adapter:
  • It’s inexpensive and will simplify the build.
  • Add acrylic rods for lighting placement.
• Combine USB-C power and standard power into one system.
• Add silicone anti-slip pads to the base.

The biggest idea I’m currently working on is a docking station that incorporates parts of the original console. I’m envisioning something that resembles a small record player, where the discs spin in the open, and the Ultra plugs into the top using pogo connectors. The docking station would have its own power supply and HDMI adapter, allowing you to keep everything plugged in at home.

Hurdles to overcome:

• I will be using two 20 pin pogo connectors and one 10 pin
  • Might be hard to pull apart, but I have not found a 50 pin pogo connector, might have to make one or elimnate/relocate the magnets
  • drive has three ribbon cables
    • 24 pin, 12 pin and a 4 pin = 40 pins
  • will need to pass some interfacing signals 10 pins
    • Ultra onboard power disable signal (1 pin)
    • Power from base to Ultra (2 pins)
    • on/off/reset (1 pin)
    • Video signals (5 pins)
    • Lid open and close (simulated with PIC module and momentary pb) (1 pin)

The benefit of this setup is portability—you could simply grab the Ultra and pull it off the base. Since the Ultra already has USB-C power, HDMI, and Bluetooth, you wouldn’t need to pack much to take it on the go. For example, if you’re heading to a hotel, you’d just need the Ultra, a Bluetooth controller, an HDMI cable, and a USB-C charger with a cable.

As someone who used to travel a lot, I think it would be pretty cool to fit a PS2 into a backpack pocket. I know there will be challenges ahead, but that’s part of the fun, right?

"After I fell off my toilet, I drew this..." Ha!

 

[StormEye45]

I finally finished (dramatic pause) "Blue Assimilation" the other night. Just gonna share some pics and talk about it some here for some post-build therapy as the thrill of the build is over. Any of you guys kow what I mean?

Putting the ModBo on the outside was a small challange in that I wanted the console to remain servicable for the future (anybody can just solder wires together). However the bigger challenge for me was trying to get the Internal Blue Retro (HW2) installed to work like I wanted it to. Let me clarify, I wanted it to work like Gusse's Methylene mod but I missed the target becuase he is "Gusse" and I am the "FatBaldDad". The port detection works really well though (Helder's Game Tech) and I can turn on/off the console. What I would like is it to function like the PS3 when you "quick-press" the Playstation button and the console resets with a chime. "Long-press" powers on and off with a hello and goodbye chime. I learned that the "Methylene" mod has its own Blue Retro firmware that Gusse has available on his website. So I think what I will do is make a PIC board that interfaces with an ESP-WROOM-32 running the DarhCloud Blue Retro latest FW. I beleive that using a PIC I can control the PS2 reset pad how I want (yes I'm adding some sweet chimage!) and also be able to just use DarthCloud's latest release of Blue Retro. The Ultra Slim needs Blue Retro, they just go really well together.

Upcoming ideas for my next build

SHELL TWEAKS:

• Adding thread inserts.
  • After taking it apart 100xs the threads wear out.
• Power button changes to reuse the orignal power button board again.
  • Keep Wesk's design with the circle location but mount the board underneith
    • Might have to add more clearance becuase of the ElectronAnalog HDMI adapter.
• Add in
• Increase the clearance under the motherboard.
  • Make more room for the blue retro ESP-WROOM-32 board
• Add Memory card slot flaps.
  • I got burned on this one already but I think I has an idea to make it work.
• Provisions for a docking station (yeah that's right I'm taking the whole can of soda).
• Change the MX4SIO microSD card adpter over to use the "BitFunx" MX4SIO adapter
  • Really cheap and will make the build easier).
  • This will include using acyrlic rod placement for the lights.
• USB C power and standard power together as one.
• Add provisions into the base for silicone pad placement (ant-slip feet).

View attachment 36243View attachment 36244
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"After I fell off my toilet, I drew this..." Ha!

View attachment 36245

View attachment 36249

View attachment 36250

the design goes hard ngl

 

[rnldaditya]

Hi, i got a information about 79003 version is not compatible because difference board layout, how about a 79002 version ?

 

[Gelopsx]

Hi everyone! New modder here. First of all, Wesk - thanks for the mod, awesome job!

I have few questions, especially to PAL version of 79k modders.



PittStone, You didn’t give any feedback. Did you manage to finish the mod? If so, please show how you did it and where you soldered, that would be very helpful for me and other PAL users.



I successfully trimmed the motherboard like you did (does it look any good?), and now just to be 100% sure where to solder to restore power - is your method good and effective? Does everything work, including the USB port? Additionally, if everything works for you, could you show exactly where you cut the traces on the board under the purple wire?

Photos would be best, because I’m not sure exactly where to use the scalpel to cut the traces near the button. I’m attaching photos.

Thanks everyone in advance for the help. You’re amazing, guys.

Those are pictures of my build:

 

[FatBaldDad]

Those are pictures of my build:

It looks like you’ve got it right! If I may, I’d like to offer some suggestions for your solder points. It seems to me that your iron might not be hot enough. Also, be sure to use plenty of flux.

Your iron should be set to around 600°–700°F. Pre-tin your wires, apply flux, and then heat the joint with your iron for a moment until the solder melts. Next, introduce the wire to the joint, hold it in place for a moment, remove the iron (while still holding the wire), and then let the wire cool before releasing it.

I’m just concerned that your joints may break over time or might not have a solid connection. Sometimes it’s the flux that’s temporarily holding the joint together, which could lead to issues later.

Check out Tito’s build tutorial on YouTube to see how he solders. Voultar also has excellent modding videos that demonstrate proper soldering techniques. Keep in mind that different joints may require different techniques (e.g., when soldering to the legs of a chip, the technique I mentioned above wouldn’t apply—you’d use a different approach for that).

I love seeing people's work. This stuff is so much fun. I am looking foward to seeing your finished build.

 

[echan42]

Do you guys like the semi-transparent piano black?
Brings me back to the first Ps3's days.

My Methylene install acts a little strange when I put the Ps2 in a shell, I think it's a little bit squeezed in there.
I already removed the ESP32s shield, any more ideas?

 

[Wesk]

My Methylene install acts a little strange when I put the Ps2 in a shell, I think it's a little bit squeezed in there.
I already removed the ESP32s shield, any more ideas?

Modify the model to allow a little more room for the components.

 

[echan42]

Modify the model to allow a little more room for the components.

I'm tempted to extrude the bottom out a bit to make the whole thing a few mm thicker, at the moment I'm gonna try and work with my current print since it was hell to get it looking the way I wanted
Anyone else installed methalyne successfully on a 79k?

 

[FatBaldDad]

I'm tempted to extrude the bottom out a bit to make the whole thing a few mm thicker, at the moment I'm gonna try and work with my current print since it was hell to get it looking the way I wanted
Anyone else installed methalyne successfully on a 79k?

I have to comment on your build—that shell looks amazing! I love it! Well done!

I have installed the Blue Retro HW2 internal setup. I want to mention that what I have is thicker than the Methylene. However, I believe he now uses a board instead of a ribbon in his latest update. Therefore, I could be wrong. On the ultra slim shell we have just as if not slightly more room than the SCPH-7900x OEM shell. Gusse would not make it too thick. I wouldn't think fitment is a problem but I (like C3P0 have been wrong from time to time, ha!)

If you place a straight edge across the bottom of the board and see that the ESP-WROOM-32x does not sit higher than the bottom of the controller ports, then you're good. In my build, the ESP was flush with the bottom of the controller port, and it fit just fine. However, I placed the ESP directly onto the motherboard with some thin double-sided tape.

If your shell fits and doesn’t look “pregnant” when it’s all put together, the next question would, of course, be about pinched wires or some insulation is neede on something.

I don’t have all the details about your build, but let me throw this out there—maybe it can help.

My install acted weird too, but it was related to the 3.3V supply. If the 3.3V from the voltage regulator on the Methylene (or ESP in my case) is not tied to the 3.3V on the console, it can behave oddly. This was a huge hang-up for me because it’s generally a big no-no to connect two 3.3V supplies to one power rail. However, in this case, you have to do it to get the features we want (power on/off/reset with the controller). Also, it works, so… I look the other way and just do it.

Now, if the Methylene doesn’t fit, all is not lost. You can save it for another build and just install the ESP-WROOM-32x. Then, pick up a current sense board from Helder's GameTech ($6 plus shipping). You won’t have chimes or the reset function, but you can still power the console on and off with your controller and still have port detection—which is pretty sweet. I can share my diagrams if you want to go that route.

I hope this helps! If you get it working, let us know what you did—I’m curious!

This is my recent build I am refering to.

 

[PurpleSkyz]

Hi, i got a information about 79003 version is not compatible because difference board layout, how about a 79002 version ?

I made an account because I want to clear this erroneous information that I have read in this thread multiple times and in other places.

I just finished an Ultra Slim build with a PAL 79003 and it was completely fine (even the lid switch was where it should have been)

Q.

 

[PurpleSkyz]

Question regarding this build. It seems that after every boot, I have to remove and reinsert the SD card for OPL to load the game list. Are there ways around this? Is it because I omitted to use a 50ohm resistance? Or could it be the 128gb Amazon SD card? (FYI, a Samsung Evo 1TB would freeze and crash OPL when trying to load the game list)

Q

 

[FatBaldDad]

Question regarding this build. It seems that after every boot, I have to remove and reinsert the SD card for OPL to load the game list. Are there ways around this? Is it because I omitted to use a 50ohm resistance? Or could it be the 128gb Amazon SD card? (FYI, a Samsung Evo 1TB would freeze and crash OPL when trying to load the game list)

Q

I'll just throw something out there in case someone chimes in and schools us all. I know I could be wrong on this.

I run all of my Ultras with a ModBo chip that boots from USB. I am assuming you are using an FMCB card.

• What version of OPL are you using?
• How are you launching OPL? (e.g., from the FMCB menu with the correct path or through uLaunchELF)
• Are the "GND" and "ACK" contacts connected/jumpered together?
• Can you include a picture of your wiring?

 

[WinterWhoBlue]

Hey! I’m new to console modding. What’s the best setting for PCBWay when I order the 3D print file from them? PLA, Resin, etc since I don’t know the differences. Otherwise I’m excited to try the build

 

[DoeKe]

Finally got my shell back from PCBWay. (I'll also answer your question in the process, @WinterWhoBlue.)

The way I went was a glassy transparent (UTR-8100 (transparent)) with a PANTONE Black U Surface Finish.
(see below)

Which came out exactly how I wanted as a smoky black glassy transparent shell.

You can also do other colors, or just do no surface finish to make it completely clear.

If you don't want transparency, you could always do any of the other options and colors to choose from to fit how you want it to look.

I did this with the top shell, bottom shell, and power button (which the power button is in the files provided by Wesk on page 1 of this thread, and took me way longer to find than i'd like to admit.)

For the other pieces, like the SD Card Bracket, USB-C Retainer, and stand, i just used the basic UTR Imagine Black option, which is cheaper, and looks just fine. Feels very solid and sturdy as well.

I'm very happy with the results of the print, and will be putting it all together later tonight, and will post my progress when I do.

Hopefully that also answered your question, @WinterWhoBlue.
It all depends on how YOU want it to look, though.
Good luck with whatever you decide to get printed.
--

Side Note: If you do plan to go with the transparent resin option, don't put any super small details on the 3D model if you decide to edit it. I tried to make my own "DoeKeStation" logo, and have it in the front corner opposite of the playstation shapes, and well.. it's not very detailed. And the small text is just not there at all.

Can only do so much with resin printing, i guess. Haha. I'll know that next time I ever decide to do another print.