Hi!I'll just throw something out there in case someone chimes in and schools us all. I know I could be wrong on this.
I run all of my Ultras with a ModBo chip that boots from USB. I am assuming you are using an FMCB card.
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- What version of OPL are you using?
- How are you launching OPL? (e.g., from the FMCB menu with the correct path or through uLaunchELF)
- Are the "GND" and "ACK" contacts connected/jumpered together?
- Can you include a picture of your wiring?
All my PS2s are also chipped.
This one is using Modbo 5.0 (but same issue using FMCB)
OPL 1.2 for MX4IO support
Ack and Ground is bridged.
The issue may be that I didn't use the resistance?
I read all sorts of conflicting guides saying that it is not necessary, but then why include it in the first place?
I think I initially followed Macho Nacho's video, but then I noticed that when he installed the ElectronAnalog HDMI mod, he didn't shield the component wires to ground which IMO isn't great advice as that will introduce interference (I tried without shielding and it was night and day).
So I am wondering if his advice to skip the resistance is also as misguided? In reality, what is the purpose of that resistance?
Q
It depends what look you are after, and how much money you have, if you care to elaborate on those points a little bit?Hey! I’m new to console modding. What’s the best setting for PCBWay when I order the 3D print file from them? PLA, Resin, etc since I don’t know the differences. Otherwise I’m excited to try the build
As for the files to print, I agree the initial post is a little bit confusing as it links to an updated version that does not include the additional button and SD card bracket. I myself have got caught out as well and placed an initial order that had to be replaced as I realised the additional parts to be printed are in the actual original download.
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I've attached pictures of my latest build to give you an idea.Hey! I’m new to console modding. What’s the best setting for PCBWay when I order the 3D print file from them? PLA, Resin, etc since I don’t know the differences. Otherwise I’m excited to try the build
The material is is:
HP MJF Nylon PA12
The color is:
Dyed black
The texture and finish is:
Shot peened
I used a website called CraftCloud that guides you through the whole process and makes it easy for you, then gives you a selection of 3D printer vendors to chose from depending of what you selected, your location etc etc, give it a try and it will show you what the finishes and materials look like.
If you want transparent, the PCBway transparent resin is the answer, but be prepared to pay extra.
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I also had noise AnalogElectron.Awsome Build! Working on the same since... well a long time, thanks to a dying fan, killing a fuse in the process. And I painted the Case:
I printed out the lettering of the stand in white PLA, and pressure fitted them in, and added a Diode to the USB input to drop the Voltage a little bit, and protect the circuit if someone connects the normal barrle jack to.
But, i have still a problem with the ElectroAnalog... the Picture is just noisy.
I already resoldert the cabels, changed the cables, isolated the cables with some distance to each other, to see if I need to add some shielding... but nothing was the solution. And now I dont really know, which next troubleshooting step I can take.
I fixed it in 2 steps.
Step one, shield the cables, AnalogElectron even has the ground via holes for this.
Step two, routing was really important for me.
I isolated main ground and 5 volt (or is it 3.3) and ran them down under the motherboard to come out the other side.
The shielded video wires run on the top side of the motherboard right above the main shield plate, this way I avoid interference with 5 volt and all the other components from the motherboard
Same for audio wire, except I ran them a bit further down.
The video, audio, and power wires never intersect.
This has reduced the noise to very closely match my other PS2 that uses component+RetroTink 4K, where before it uses to be very noticeable and distracting.
Hope this helps.
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Just a note, maybe this was trimmed after the fact so ignore me if so, but you dont need to hookup the whole right row of that modbo except CX. SX is for PS1 and Y to A is for DVD, which obviously, we don't need anymore. This will save you lots of time on your next build as those B/G/H/I on this model aren't exactly fun soldering jobsI have to comment on your build—that shell looks amazing! I love it! Well done!
I have installed the Blue Retro HW2 internal setup. I want to mention that what I have is thicker than the Methylene. However, I believe he now uses a board instead of a ribbon in his latest update. Therefore, I could be wrong. On the ultra slim shell we have just as if not slightly more room than the SCPH-7900x OEM shell. Gusse would not make it too thick. I wouldn't think fitment is a problem but I (like C3P0 have been wrong from time to time, ha!)
If you place a straight edge across the bottom of the board and see that the ESP-WROOM-32x does not sit higher than the bottom of the controller ports, then you're good. In my build, the ESP was flush with the bottom of the controller port, and it fit just fine. However, I placed the ESP directly onto the motherboard with some thin double-sided tape.
If your shell fits and doesn’t look “pregnant” when it’s all put together, the next question would, of course, be about pinched wires or some insulation is neede on something.
I don’t have all the details about your build, but let me throw this out there—maybe it can help.
My install acted weird too, but it was related to the 3.3V supply. If the 3.3V from the voltage regulator on the Methylene (or ESP in my case) is not tied to the 3.3V on the console, it can behave oddly. This was a huge hang-up for me because it’s generally a big no-no to connect two 3.3V supplies to one power rail. However, in this case, you have to do it to get the features we want (power on/off/reset with the controller). Also, it works, so… I look the other way and just do it.
Now, if the Methylene doesn’t fit, all is not lost. You can save it for another build and just install the ESP-WROOM-32x. Then, pick up a current sense board from Helder's GameTech ($6 plus shipping). You won’t have chimes or the reset function, but you can still power the console on and off with your controller and still have port detection—which is pretty sweet. I can share my diagrams if you want to go that route.
I hope this helps! If you get it working, let us know what you did—I’m curious!
This is my recent build I am refering to.
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