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Worklog PS4 Slim Portable

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Feb 16, 2025
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Hi, this is my second attempt to create a PS4 Portable.

My first attempt was a PS4 FAT Portable with a seperate gamepad.
It was just a PS4 on Lithium batteries with a screen. But 12V with 13A gave just one hour of gameplay with a 3S4P of 18650 (3500 mah each cell) so i really prefered to play it with a power input.
Here is a photo:
PS4 FAT.jpg


My new project is now to do a PS4 Slim Portable with a gamepad inside and a 3S4P of 21700 (5000 mAh each cell)
Thanks to the Ashida Wii project, i feel more confident to make my new project.

The 3D Front part: (made with Tinkercad)
Vue3D-Haut-A.jpg
Vue3D-Haut-B.jpg

In reality: (FDM printed with PLA+)
dessus.jpg
Interieur coque haute A.jpg

Interieur coque haute B.jpg


Schematics of the PS4 gamepad :
Gamepad schematic.jpg

Joystick.jpg

And almost all wired:
cablage 3quart fini.jpg


But... I connect the new wired gamepad to a PS4 and even a Windows PC and I realise that i have a problem with L2 and R2 !
L2 and R2 is doing like a rapid fire alltime !!!
When I check an official gamepad i realise that the contact are strange for L2 and R2
When i check with a multimeter, it's like the points are connected even if you don't press the button with some kind of a resistor (7K ohm) or a capacitor (125n farad)

Here is a photo:
Pbm L2 and R2.jpg


So i need help. Perhaps one of you have already made a modern gamepad with that problem and found a solution ?
 
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Joined
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I just realised that in the panel of usb configurator gamepad on windows. L2 and R2 are blinked when it's not pressed and are ON when i press the button
I will try tomerrow to add a 7k resistor between L2- and L2+ or a capacitor of 100nF (i have not a 125nF)

Stay tuned
 
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Joined
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Yeah it's morning time, i wake up and rushed to test this and.. it WORKS !
So to make L2 working we have to put a resistor of 7K5 (7500 ohms) between L2- and L2+ and between L2+ and L1+
To make R2 working we have to put a resistor of 7K5 (7500 ohms) between R2- and R2+ and between R2+ and R1+

I got at first a pbm because i had not soldered at the same side R1-R1+ R2+R2- .. it was inverted and the R2 was always connected and disconnected only when R1 was pressed :p it was crazy .. having the same color for + and - was not a good idea ZzzzZZzzzz
The photos:
L2.jpg
R2.jpg
 
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Joined
Nov 9, 2017
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CA
Portables
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Hi, this is my second attempt to create a PS4 Portable.

My first attempt was a PS4 FAT Portable with a seperate gamepad.
It was just a PS4 on Lithium batteries with a screen. But 12V with 13A gave just one hour of gameplay with a 3S4P of 18650 (3500 mah each cell) so i really prefered to play it with a power input.
Here is a photo:
View attachment 38053

My new project is now to do a PS4 Slim Portable with a gamepad inside and a 3S4P of 21700 (5000 mAh each cell)
Thanks to the Ashida Wii project, i feel more confident to make my new project.

The 3D Front part: (made with Tinkercad)
View attachment 38054 View attachment 38055
In reality: (FDM printed with PLA+)
View attachment 38056 View attachment 38057
View attachment 38058

Schematics of the PS4 gamepad :
View attachment 38059
View attachment 38061
And almost all wired:
View attachment 38060

But... I connect the new wired gamepad to a PS4 and even a Windows PC and I realise that i have a problem with L2 and R2 !
L2 and R2 is doing like a rapid fire alltime !!!
When I check an official gamepad i realise that the contact are strange for L2 and R2
When i check with a multimeter, it's like the points are connected even if you don't press the button with some kind of a resistor (7K ohm) or a capacitor (125n farad)

Here is a photo:
View attachment 38062

So i need help. Perhaps one of you have already made a modern gamepad with that problem and found a solution ?
This is pretty cool! Good job man.
 
Joined
Feb 16, 2025
Messages
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Trim the metal case to decrease size without cutting the mother board:
Size of the motherboard ps4 slim: 247mm 142mm
I keep the metal case and put fresh pads for the ram and new thermal paste
IMG_20250325_121124.jpg

I build a little case and cover with aluminium foil + capton and I add a probe to check temperature

56°C in game for about 15mn in gaming

IMG_20250329_065242.jpg

I built the battery 3S4P and will use a BMS 3S 40A and an active balancer that can be ON/OFF with a little switch
boitier bas.jpg


IMG_20250331_073825.jpg
 
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Joined
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After 2 days of gaming the battery life is 2h and the charging time is 2h30 at 60 watts (3S4P - 20000 mAh - 21700 10.5A cells)
The PS4 switch off at 9.7V~9.8V (3.26v for each lithium cell so they are far to be emptied (2.5v))
The power delivery module inside the "PS4 Portable" is really hot at 60 watts but the plastic PTFE is not melting thanksfully.
My powerdelivery brandnamed GREEN has 4 ports: 2 for 100 watts and 2 for 25 watts.
The 25 watts provide in fact 20 watts with my PD module, it's not warm at all and it's a better choice to charge the lithium battery without decrease the battery life but the charging time is around 8h.
It's heavy and not really fun to play because of the weight so it's better to play it on a stand or lying down in your bed and stand it on your belly ^o^
I have added a module to modify the speed of the CPU/GPU fan made by "Circuit Surgery" who sell it on ebay from Great Britain
Here is the link: https://www.ebay.fr/itm/204630771901
 
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YveltalGriffin

First Wii U Trimmer
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Very cool build! 2 hours of runtime is impressive.

I'm curious, where is the battery charger? I only see the PD controller, protection circuit, and balancer.

Edit: nevermind, looks like the PD controller is an IP2368 charger module? Good choice
 
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@YveltalGriffin
If you mean the battery pack, it is beneath the RED TABLE, the cells are in pink color
Vue3D-detail.jpg

I have not added it but it's still possible to add on the switch ON/OFF a link to the real ps4 charger thanks to a XT60 just for the line 12V because it s linked to the 5v module for the standby mode (it's the little green scare near the active balancer module)
You can also play with the power delivery but at 60watts it's not enough because the ps4 slim use about 76 watts

@YveltalGriffin yes it's a IP2368 charger module for 2S to 6S
You have to change SMD resistors for choosing 3S (sold 4S) , 4.15V for each cells (sold 4.2V) and the max capacity to 20000mAh
R7= 9.1k for 3S
R5= 24.9k for 20000 mAh
R2= 7.5k for 4.15V
 
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