Worklog The first attempt at creating a portable Wii with the appearance of GB.

Stitches

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Only useful thing I can suggest is to give the Wii a full IPA clean and go over every solder joint with a fine tooth comb, probe and verify every connection. If everything lines up, the Wii may just have died. It happens sometimes
 

Bayou

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I replaced the NAND FPC cable, and amazingly, the Wii has restored the image. Next, I need to test the PSPGO joystick.
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Additionally, I purchased a Korean version Wii. Besides fixing the 003 error, I found that even though it has a 4-layer motherboard, it still heats up more than other versions. Without adding a heatsink, it overheats and shuts down after about 8 minutes, whereas my US version Wii can stay on continuously.
The difference is because the Korean version is WE-40 and not FB-40 like the other versions?
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Stitches

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Wiis aren't meant to be run without a heatsink regardless of revision....... also the Korean Wiis do have a very different firmware that doesn't work with a lot of softmods. I don't know anything about Korea specific hardware revisions, but if they existed I wouldn't be surprised
 

Bayou

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Wiis aren't meant to be run without a heatsink regardless of revision....... also the Korean Wiis do have a very different firmware that doesn't work with a lot of softmods. I don't know anything about Korea specific hardware revisions, but if they existed I wouldn't be surprised
I conducted this test because I was shocked by the heat generated by the Korean version of the Wii when it was powered on. The tests were conducted in the same environment for both versions. The Korean Wii can only last for 8 minutes before overheating and shutting down, whereas the American version can run for over half an hour (I did not test the maximum duration). When I placed the original heat sink on the Korean Wii, it could stay on indefinitely. However, as soon as I removed the heat sink, it would overheat and shut down within two minutes.
 

Bayou

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I conducted this test because I was shocked by the heat generated by the Korean version of the Wii when it was powered on. The tests were conducted in the same environment for both versions. The Korean Wii can only last for 8 minutes before overheating and shutting down, whereas the American version can run for over half an hour (I did not test the maximum duration). When I placed the original heat sink on the Korean Wii, it could stay on indefinitely. However, as soon as I removed the heat sink, it would overheat and shut down within two minutes.
The heat generated by the 4-layer Korean version of the Wii is more similar to that of a 6-layer motherboard.
 

Bayou

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I don't quite understand. I've adjusted and soldered the correct pin definitions, but it still remains in a triggered state and then shuts off. There's no response when I push the joystick. I found its documentation, and both 3.3V and 5V power supplies give the same result.
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Stitches

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I hope you didn't put 5v into the joysticks while they were connected to the 3.3v GC+
 

Bayou

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I hope you didn't put 5v into the joysticks while they were connected to the 3.3v GC+
Initially, I used 3.3V to power the joystick, but it still remained in a triggered state and became ineffective. Then, I tried powering the joystick with 5V, but it resulted in the same abnormal behavior. According to its datasheet, it should be fine as long as it doesn't exceed 5V.
 

Bayou

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The joystick remains in a triggered state and then shuts off.
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Stitches

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The joystick can take the 5v just fine yes, but when you max out one of the axis by moving the stick it will allow that full 5v to flow back to the GC+ and potentially destroy it. The GC+ runs on 3.3v logic. If you feed a 5v signal back to it, you'll damage it.
 

Bayou

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The joystick can take the 5v just fine yes, but when you max out one of the axis by moving the stick it will allow that full 5v to flow back to the GC+ and potentially destroy it. The GC+ runs on 3.3v logic. If you feed a 5v signal back to it, you'll damage it.
I connected a wire from GND to the GC+ chip to simulate a button press, and it worked well. Does this rule out any issues with the GC+?
 

Stitches

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It doesn't rule problems out, but it does indicate that the chip isn't dead
 
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