With no USB power you should at least get a black screen with the "No USB detected" warning
Worklog Worklog - Behiimoth
- Thread starter The_Dankest
- Start date
I verified continuity between u10 and the via. I removed the regs and composite cable before testing resistances. The resistances seemed fine, although they were noticably off from when I first prepared this trim, but I sanded the perimeter with 2000 grit sandpaper anyways. I recorded the resistances again and they moved closer to the old resistances.
I added two ground wires and 5v while resoldering the regs. I connected the resoldered composite cable to a small LCD and the fan spun but I got no signal. I tried again with a crt but the crt shocked me while I was holding the trim in my hand. The fan still spins after that.
Make sure you clean off all that burnt flux. The carbonised shit suspended in it can cause transient shorts that'll prevent the system from booting
Should I use IPA or acetone
IPA or methylated spirits. Acetone will damage the components
I cleaned the board with IPA and I'm getting the same result.
Is there more I can do or do I need to trim another Wii?
I've redone the solder joints, reduced wire length, and redone u10 with a thicker wire. Despite this I am getting the same result with a working fan but no video
Seems like the Wii might be dead
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you might want to check the edge where that big ground pad is soldered to. I have accidently bridged layers by soldering to something that goes right up against the trim line. I think cutting off that corner with the mutilated disc drive fpc connector could help too, i have seen where half cut components can sometimes cause shorts.
I want to get this project done this summer so I went ahead and bought a new
board from eBay. I've installed RVLoader, patched out WiFi and enabled VGA.
Do these trim lines good good? I'm still retaining the AV and USB ports like
the last trim.
I may try to revive the other board at a later date.
Lines look good to me
I relocated and verified u10
I accidentally rendered u10 and u9 useless by means of too much force. So I took u10 from my old trim. Like the previous trim, this once also utilizes extremely thin enameled wire. Once I verified boot I prepared for trimming
There is kapton tape beneath the masking tape covering the CPU and GPU, as well as on the backside covering the u10 wire in its entirety. Then I trimmed
There were some especially rough spots I used a file on to flatten. I proceeded by sanding with 150, 220, 320, 600, and 1500 grit. I know 1500 is excessive.
I sanded the edge to have a round profile to help separate the layers. The edges look good except for one rotary tool gnash present in the above photo. I sanded it to clean it up, does it look like it will be a problem? After sanding I cleaned the board with 70% IPA and cotton swabs. Somewhere in my handing of the PCB during trimming, sanding, or cleaning, the u10 wire broke near the via, likely where the wire is bent, as you can see in an above photo. It wasn't hard to remedy. I don't have compressed air but my vacuum has a blow function which I'll use tomorrow. My resistances are below if someone could check them. Thank you.
The trim will be ready for power after getting some air, correct? CrazyGadgets PSU-Plus will make it very easy to supply power.
I accidentally rendered u10 and u9 useless by means of too much force. So I took u10 from my old trim. Like the previous trim, this once also utilizes extremely thin enameled wire. Once I verified boot I prepared for trimming
There is kapton tape beneath the masking tape covering the CPU and GPU, as well as on the backside covering the u10 wire in its entirety. Then I trimmed
There were some especially rough spots I used a file on to flatten. I proceeded by sanding with 150, 220, 320, 600, and 1500 grit. I know 1500 is excessive.
I sanded the edge to have a round profile to help separate the layers. The edges look good except for one rotary tool gnash present in the above photo. I sanded it to clean it up, does it look like it will be a problem? After sanding I cleaned the board with 70% IPA and cotton swabs. Somewhere in my handing of the PCB during trimming, sanding, or cleaning, the u10 wire broke near the via, likely where the wire is bent, as you can see in an above photo. It wasn't hard to remedy. I don't have compressed air but my vacuum has a blow function which I'll use tomorrow. My resistances are below if someone could check them. Thank you.
The trim will be ready for power after getting some air, correct? CrazyGadgets PSU-Plus will make it very easy to supply power.
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- Portables
- working on No.1
I’m no expert, but that could potentially cause a short. I get rid of those gnashes by sanding it aggressively with a palm sander. But good job with the trim!
That swoosh is fine. You just gouged the GND plane, and there's nothing of consequence underneath. Resistances look alright
Trim works. I'm very thankful it does too.
I'll wire 5v today and will probably cut the LDO legs to allow connection of the 1v8 line from the PSU-Plus without removing the component because it's easier and faster.
After which, I'll connect Bluetooth, WiFi, and the GC+ 2.0.
I'll redo the solder joints aswell
I'll wire 5v today and will probably cut the LDO legs to allow connection of the 1v8 line from the PSU-Plus without removing the component because it's easier and faster.
After which, I'll connect Bluetooth, WiFi, and the GC+ 2.0.
I'll redo the solder joints aswell
USB works
The stock fan and heatsink are plenty thick when stacked vertically. I plan on using a different fan with either a trimmed heatsink or a different one as well. It's fine as long as the height of the Wii (with USB and AV ports) combined with the heatsink and fan aren't pushing the thickness of the finished portable.
Above is the heatsink and fan combo I may use. The fan uses 12v but I thought it would work on 5v just fine so I spliced the connector from a non-functional stock fan onto it. (I have the original fan header on the Wii so may as well use it).
I found that 5v is not enough to spool the fan. It only twitches. A boost converter is in order.
The stock fan and heatsink are plenty thick when stacked vertically. I plan on using a different fan with either a trimmed heatsink or a different one as well. It's fine as long as the height of the Wii (with USB and AV ports) combined with the heatsink and fan aren't pushing the thickness of the finished portable.
Above is the heatsink and fan combo I may use. The fan uses 12v but I thought it would work on 5v just fine so I spliced the connector from a non-functional stock fan onto it. (I have the original fan header on the Wii so may as well use it).
I found that 5v is not enough to spool the fan. It only twitches. A boost converter is in order.