Shipyu
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Please, you should ask this in a new thread, this is a wrokblog... But yes you can, its all indicated in the ultimate triming guide on the forum.
Worklog Yet, another portable Wii
- Thread starter Shipyu
- Start date
Dropping to 1v when on is weird............. can't say I've seen that one before
Also do please make your own thread to ask these questions. Hijacking someone's worklog isn't the best form
Shipyu
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I've talked to Gunnar and the 5V line on the PMS must have been fried
My can clearly see that L4 has been damaged but we're not sure how far the damages got. I could buy L4 and U4 from mouser and replace them.
Doing so will cost me 30€ but I'm unsure it will work.
Replacing the PMS will cost me 100€ but I don't know how they're gonna be available.
It's up to you. Personally I'd try it and prayge
Replacing those reg chips isn't too bad with a basic hot air station and a metric shitton of tacky flux
Replacing those reg chips isn't too bad with a basic hot air station and a metric shitton of tacky flux
Shipyu
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After I fried the 5V on my PMS, Thanks to Gunnar I bought some components on Mouser that COULD be what's dead. Lets pray ! (otherwise I'll spend 100€ for a new pms)
I've also printed the top case for the first time. On my glass bed, it looks awesome ! (I never really use it but I thought it would be cool and I was right ! It shines like a mirror)
But there is a lot of modifications to do because everything is so tightly put in here. I managed to get the wii to be "only" 3cm thick, 22wide and 11cm tall.
There was still a lot of wires to solder to the Wii so I did : RVL Amp wires, I2C wires, volume wires, BT, MX chip. I've labeled each one of them and when I'll be done wiring to the wii, I'll wrap it in a ton of kapton tape so nothing breaks.
I'm about to do VGA wiring but I'm unsure about the wire thickness I should use. I firstly used .3mm wires twisted with GND wires and it worked great. But there were not able to bend easily thus breaking the solder joints on the Wii. I'd like to do with .1mm wires but I'm unsure that will be OK. I've also done all the other wires with .1mm but can someone confirm that this thickness is good for data ?
I've also printed the top case for the first time. On my glass bed, it looks awesome ! (I never really use it but I thought it would be cool and I was right ! It shines like a mirror)
But there is a lot of modifications to do because everything is so tightly put in here. I managed to get the wii to be "only" 3cm thick, 22wide and 11cm tall.
There was still a lot of wires to solder to the Wii so I did : RVL Amp wires, I2C wires, volume wires, BT, MX chip. I've labeled each one of them and when I'll be done wiring to the wii, I'll wrap it in a ton of kapton tape so nothing breaks.
I'm about to do VGA wiring but I'm unsure about the wire thickness I should use. I firstly used .3mm wires twisted with GND wires and it worked great. But there were not able to bend easily thus breaking the solder joints on the Wii. I'd like to do with .1mm wires but I'm unsure that will be OK. I've also done all the other wires with .1mm but can someone confirm that this thickness is good for data ?
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1mm wire should work to my knowledge.
Shipyu
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I meant 0.1mm wire I wrote .1mm ^^
yeah i meant 0.1mm wire sorry lol
Shipyu
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One word : Pain.
I'm not doing this again
Labeled every wire then secured them with tape
These wires are for Bluetooth, Mx chip, digital volume output to rvl Amp, I2c to rvl pms and rvl Amp, volume control from rvl Amp, VGA video so 5x2 wires, USB and I think I'm done
I'm not doing this again
Labeled every wire then secured them with tape
These wires are for Bluetooth, Mx chip, digital volume output to rvl Amp, I2c to rvl pms and rvl Amp, volume control from rvl Amp, VGA video so 5x2 wires, USB and I think I'm done
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The strat is to get 3 different colors of 34 gauge magnet wire, and then just take pictures of what wire is which before screwing the board in. Costs a bit up front, but this saves me a lot of headaches during final assembly
Shipyu
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I'm trying to solder each component at a time to make sure they work.
I've already done the BT module and my wiimote was able to connect but I couldn't press A to boot to priiloader on the RVL Bootloader like it's written. I guess that's because it wants a Gamecube controller's input and I'll try that later on.
I have been trying to do the USB relocation and I can't get it to work. I've tried to solder on both CM1 and CM2 to keep the protection in case I do something wrong.
Screenshot from my cheap USB microscope :
I know for sure D+ and D- are not shorted either together or to GND. Are my wirings right? Since there is no indication on where is D+ or D- on the Trimming Guide and I had to guess by looking at USB pinout and the traces on an untrimmed motherboard.
I soldered 5v and data cables straight on an USB key for testing, on which I copied the files that were on the USB I installed RVLoader with. USB formatted to FAT32.
I've already done the BT module and my wiimote was able to connect but I couldn't press A to boot to priiloader on the RVL Bootloader like it's written. I guess that's because it wants a Gamecube controller's input and I'll try that later on.
I have been trying to do the USB relocation and I can't get it to work. I've tried to solder on both CM1 and CM2 to keep the protection in case I do something wrong.
Screenshot from my cheap USB microscope :
I know for sure D+ and D- are not shorted either together or to GND. Are my wirings right? Since there is no indication on where is D+ or D- on the Trimming Guide and I had to guess by looking at USB pinout and the traces on an untrimmed motherboard.
I soldered 5v and data cables straight on an USB key for testing, on which I copied the files that were on the USB I installed RVLoader with. USB formatted to FAT32.
Shipyu
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OK so I tried with the first Wii I bought which I may have fried before but I was unsure and now I'm pretty much certain its dead.
I hope I didn't fry the USB lines on the working trimmed Wii, I have no idea what I'm doing wrong here or if I fried the USB lines...
I hope I didn't fry the USB lines on the working trimmed Wii, I have no idea what I'm doing wrong here or if I fried the USB lines...
- Joined
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Make sure to twist your USB data wires together as tight as possible. It might also be worth using the vias instead of the protection complements for the data lines, you have to mess up pretty brutally to kill the USB lines.
Shipyu
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;D
I didn't twist the wires at first and this time I used 0.3mm wires just in case 0.1mm was too thin
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Shipyu
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So a LOT happened since last week but I didn't have time to post an update. I'm going back to my town's school next week and won't have time to make any workblog update or even upgrade my portable Wii.
I received the replacements components for the PMS Lite, I ordered 6 of which could have burnt. I tried first replacing L4 and well.... It's working!! I'm getting 5V back so then, I rushed into soldering again all the Wii wires to the PMS and began testing all the functionalities. While doing so, I started printing the top case.
What I've tested so far :
- BT working perfectly
- USB working perfectly
- VGA video is working great but some solder broke on the display screen and the screen had been damaged the first time I used it. A new one is on the way and shoule be here next week.
- Fan is Working but the Wii is getting up to 45C on idle which I think is way too much. I tested both thermal paste and pads. I'm pretty sure it's because the motherboard isn't hardly pressed against the copper plate.
- All the 4layers PCB are detected in RVLoader
- Everything about the RVL Amp is working : volume buttons, Output switching, speakers and headset output and didnt need to twist MC wire with ground.
- MX Chip detected but the time is always the same when I boot the console. What could be wrong?
- Button input on the GC +2 are working great but the triggers are verry buggy and my sketchy button setup doesn't work at all (2 silicon tact switchs in parallel on each side of the trigger so we can press either the left side or the right side + a clicky button a bit further, between the 2 silicon switches to act as the 2nd sensitivity switch). Maybe I made mistake while soldering the buttons in parallel. Or that could be RVLoader settings?
- The included LED is working
- I tried launching GC games but my screen would show a message like "format non supported". Is this so kind of settings I have to change in my display board? (would be a pain because I desoldered all the connectors)
- I tried closing the Wii with the upper part but it wont close
. Things are so compacts in it that I'll have to study a bit more the 3D models to make some more room.
Also, could someone share me the average Wii consumption while playing/ being idle? I'm using 4 3600mAh liions cells but they're discharging way faster than I thought they would. I know they're good, I bought them on a trustful place.
Finally, some pics:
L4 that bitch. When removing it, it turned into pieces.
Top, middle and bottom parts assembled ! Just need to add the screen but tolerances are quite horrible and I had to try print the screen compartments 5 times before printing the whole top part.
As I saide, I tried getting a Wii that was still quite thin to feel go to play. I managed to get the whole thing to 3cm thick. 22cm long. On this pic I just finished soldering all the things in the top part, which was LONG!
Fianlly! Yeah, it's playable. But there is a LOT of improvements to do ! (the LED fell out of its place on the pic)
I received the replacements components for the PMS Lite, I ordered 6 of which could have burnt. I tried first replacing L4 and well.... It's working!! I'm getting 5V back so then, I rushed into soldering again all the Wii wires to the PMS and began testing all the functionalities. While doing so, I started printing the top case.
What I've tested so far :
- BT working perfectly
- USB working perfectly
- VGA video is working great but some solder broke on the display screen and the screen had been damaged the first time I used it. A new one is on the way and shoule be here next week.
- Fan is Working but the Wii is getting up to 45C on idle which I think is way too much. I tested both thermal paste and pads. I'm pretty sure it's because the motherboard isn't hardly pressed against the copper plate.
- All the 4layers PCB are detected in RVLoader
- Everything about the RVL Amp is working : volume buttons, Output switching, speakers and headset output and didnt need to twist MC wire with ground.
- MX Chip detected but the time is always the same when I boot the console. What could be wrong?
- Button input on the GC +2 are working great but the triggers are verry buggy and my sketchy button setup doesn't work at all (2 silicon tact switchs in parallel on each side of the trigger so we can press either the left side or the right side + a clicky button a bit further, between the 2 silicon switches to act as the 2nd sensitivity switch). Maybe I made mistake while soldering the buttons in parallel. Or that could be RVLoader settings?
- The included LED is working
- I tried launching GC games but my screen would show a message like "format non supported". Is this so kind of settings I have to change in my display board? (would be a pain because I desoldered all the connectors)
- I tried closing the Wii with the upper part but it wont close
. Things are so compacts in it that I'll have to study a bit more the 3D models to make some more room.Also, could someone share me the average Wii consumption while playing/ being idle? I'm using 4 3600mAh liions cells but they're discharging way faster than I thought they would. I know they're good, I bought them on a trustful place.
Finally, some pics:
L4 that bitch. When removing it, it turned into pieces.
Top, middle and bottom parts assembled ! Just need to add the screen but tolerances are quite horrible and I had to try print the screen compartments 5 times before printing the whole top part.
As I saide, I tried getting a Wii that was still quite thin to feel go to play. I managed to get the whole thing to 3cm thick. 22cm long. On this pic I just finished soldering all the things in the top part, which was LONG!
Fianlly! Yeah, it's playable. But there is a LOT of improvements to do ! (the LED fell out of its place on the pic)
Attachments
-45C is absolutely normal
-For the MX, did you wire up the watch battery to it? If you didn't, it won't keep time.
-From what you're describing, it sounds like you have a normal dual tact setup for the shoulder buttons. Make sure that you have digital triggers set in the RVLoader settings. If that doesn't fix it, maybe your wiring is wrong. I'd suggest posting pics of it.
-For the screen issue, did you enable "Force Progressive" on each GC game?
-IIRC the Wii consumes around 5-6W, and a full portable is usually 10-12W. There's a thread for the Wii working currents, I'd google that (I'm on mobile or I'd post it myself). As a reference, an average G-Boy with 2 3500mAh cells gets 2.75 hours, so using that ratio, I'd estimate you'd get roughly 5.5 hours out of your portable. It might be more accurate if you had a ratio of a portable that uses all the 4Layer boards (like the Ashida), but I haven't timed a full-to-dead run on mine yet.
I hope some of this helps! I'm loving the look of this portable btw.
-For the MX, did you wire up the watch battery to it? If you didn't, it won't keep time.
-From what you're describing, it sounds like you have a normal dual tact setup for the shoulder buttons. Make sure that you have digital triggers set in the RVLoader settings. If that doesn't fix it, maybe your wiring is wrong. I'd suggest posting pics of it.
-For the screen issue, did you enable "Force Progressive" on each GC game?
-IIRC the Wii consumes around 5-6W, and a full portable is usually 10-12W. There's a thread for the Wii working currents, I'd google that (I'm on mobile or I'd post it myself). As a reference, an average G-Boy with 2 3500mAh cells gets 2.75 hours, so using that ratio, I'd estimate you'd get roughly 5.5 hours out of your portable. It might be more accurate if you had a ratio of a portable that uses all the 4Layer boards (like the Ashida), but I haven't timed a full-to-dead run on mine yet.
I hope some of this helps! I'm loving the look of this portable btw.
To add to Crazy's post about forcing progressive scan: Some games will still boot in 480i and sit at the "Do you want to use progressive scan" menu even though 480p is meant to be forced. So if that happens, just spam A for a bit to confirm progressive scan (fortunately the yes option is selected by default). If it's that, the game will quickly shift to the correct display mode and you will have picture.
Shipyu
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I just went back home and I got to the Wii as soon as I could.
I fixed all the issues about the shoulder buttons inputs, it was only solder mistakes and copper wires that broke off.
After soldering wires directly to the battery, the MX chip now works. I know it's not a great idea soldering directly to a battery but I wanted it to stay in place whatever happened.
I also improved the cooling system by forcing the air to only go through the rad using tape and I made a better contact between the CPU and GPU and the copper plate + I used thermal paste.
I did the fan calibration and now its working well even if sometimes the fan will spin at max speed for a few seconds.
I tried launching Bomberman GC game on the Wii and spamming A but that wouldn't change anything. I'll try with other games later on.
The MX chip is working but I can't get the Wii to boot the the system menu. So I can't change time. Is there either a solution for booting to the Wii Menu or to change time in RVLoader / Priiloader? I did the BT relocation but not the WiFi. I'm pretty sure the No Wifi patch has been activated but if that's the only issue you guys think off, I'll try to patch it again.
I'm also a bit concerned about the PMS Lite charging capabilities. When I was on low battery and charging it with a Samsung 10W 5V / 15W 9V charger, the battery % would still decrease ! And it take for ages to fully charge the Wii. I've set the charging amp to 4.5A which is the maximum for the PMS Lite. Am I the only one experiencing this ? Or maybe that's just my charger but it is now even heating as much as when charging my phone which has fastcharge.
EDIT :
I forgot to add that I can't find a way to use Z2 in GC2Wii. When I want to set an input and I press Z2, nothing happens like there is no Z2 but I know I soldered it correctly. And I can't test it in RVloader since there is no Z2 on the GC controller.
I fixed all the issues about the shoulder buttons inputs, it was only solder mistakes and copper wires that broke off.
After soldering wires directly to the battery, the MX chip now works. I know it's not a great idea soldering directly to a battery but I wanted it to stay in place whatever happened.
I also improved the cooling system by forcing the air to only go through the rad using tape and I made a better contact between the CPU and GPU and the copper plate + I used thermal paste.
I did the fan calibration and now its working well even if sometimes the fan will spin at max speed for a few seconds.
I tried launching Bomberman GC game on the Wii and spamming A but that wouldn't change anything. I'll try with other games later on.
The MX chip is working but I can't get the Wii to boot the the system menu. So I can't change time. Is there either a solution for booting to the Wii Menu or to change time in RVLoader / Priiloader? I did the BT relocation but not the WiFi. I'm pretty sure the No Wifi patch has been activated but if that's the only issue you guys think off, I'll try to patch it again.
I'm also a bit concerned about the PMS Lite charging capabilities. When I was on low battery and charging it with a Samsung 10W 5V / 15W 9V charger, the battery % would still decrease ! And it take for ages to fully charge the Wii. I've set the charging amp to 4.5A which is the maximum for the PMS Lite. Am I the only one experiencing this ? Or maybe that's just my charger but it is now even heating as much as when charging my phone which has fastcharge.
EDIT :
I forgot to add that I can't find a way to use Z2 in GC2Wii. When I want to set an input and I press Z2, nothing happens like there is no Z2 but I know I soldered it correctly. And I can't test it in RVloader since there is no Z2 on the GC controller.
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