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Hey Guys! I've had my Ashida working for several months now (thanks again to Wesk, Stiches, and everyone else that helped me!). I've recently decided to display my collection of handhelds so I bought some stands for them. I'd like a stand for the Ashida, too. I tried just sending the 'Ashida...

I had a bunch of weirdness until I let the batteries charge the first time for a full day. I just let it charge for 24 hours without touching it. That took care of a bunch of issues including the fan cutting out.

That doesn't look promising. Probably the only way to know for sure is to wire them up to something to test. Maybe sacrifice a cheap pair of wired headphones?

Well it took me about two months, but I think my Ashida build is finally done! Wesk, thank you so much for all of the work you did on this design! As a huge GC fan, having a real-hardware portable that has the same feel as a GC controller is amazing. It's something I never could've made on my...

Okay, I think placing Kapton tape over any potential contact points that were sticking out fixed it. I played for over an hour without issue which is way longer than it’s taken for the issue to come up before that. Hopefully, that did the trick.

Thanks. If these aren't showing you what you want to see, let me know.

So I noticed that I can get the stick drift to stop if I open the case and separate the two halves. So it has to be an issue with my build. I'm guessing that something inside is shorting SX and/or SY to ground somewhere along those circuits. I'm going to try to cover any contacts with kapton...

So I've been testing out my Ashida and I've noticed that I'm getting drift on my main thumb stick after around 20 minutes of gameplay. The direction of the drift seems to vary, but it's usually to the left. I've tried the Sticks Wizard in the RV Loader settings but the drift keeps coming back...

Okay, dumb question, but what screw size do I use for the eight screws that close the case? The Ashida BOM only mentions M2x5, which worked for stuff inside the case, but the screw holes for closing the case look smaller in diameter to me. I just don't want to strip out the screw holes on the...

Gotcha. Okay, that's really helpful. Maybe I'll just wire some temporary buttons up to bring the brightness up a tad before I close my Ashida up. Thank you!

Sorry if this isn't actually specific to the Ashida, but I seem to be having trouble adjusting screen brightness. Based on the RV Loader 1.6 forum thread, it looks like I should be able to adjust screen brightness by holding X+Z+DPad Up/Down. When I try to do that, I see the battery life...

Wiring them did the trick. Thanks! Now I just need to mess around with it to make sure there aren't any other issues before I call it finished.

Okay the last issue I'm noticing is that I get audio through the headphones but not through the speakers. I'm guessing that the little legs on the speakers aren't making pressure contact with the pads on the left and right Ashida boards (I didn't solder them). Should I try soldering wires from...

You're right. I just went with the colors in the diagram and didn't notice the difference indicated in the pin out. Problem solved. Thanks!

Yeah, it's weird. I'll try switching them around on the driver board pads tomorrow. It's getting late and I always end up messing things up more when I try to fix stuff too late at night. Thanks for your help!

So I powered up my Ashida for the first time and it looks like the VGA colors are wrong. I confirmed that I made the connections exactly as described in the Gii-Boy instructions for VGA. I double checked all of the video connections and they have proper continuity. My camera sucks at taking...

Another day, another question. The data sheet for the RVL-PMS Lite says that the 5V pad should connect to 'USB and/or other 5V components'. If I'm using the PMS-PD for USB, I don't need 5V from the RVL-PMS Lite, correct? The Wii board doesn't require 5V and none of the other components in a...

Ah, okay. Got it. Yeah, based on the Gii Boy instructions, it seemed like that might be the case, but I wasn't sure. And I guess that makes sense. There are two data line pairs on the Wii motherboard because there are two USB ports on the Wii. But the PMS-PD only has one USB port. Thanks...

Question about the D+ and D- USB data connections from the PMS-PD to the Wii mobo. I see in the USB section of the Definitive Wii Trimming Guide that there are two differential pairs of USB data lines that must be connected. Each of the two differential pairs contain one D+ line and one D-...

Just wanted to call out something interesting about my SLS shell from PCBway. I just noticed that the area under the heat sink where you can route wires was solid and I couldn't get a wire through. Messing with it a bit, I realized it was still completely full of the PA-12 dust that is used in...