I successfully connected the PSP Go joystick to the GC2.0+, but even when I push the PSP Go joystick to its limit, the character in the game still moves very slowly. Even after I adjusted the dead zone to 0, the issue persists. Has anyone managed to fix this problem?
You are amazing, my friend! !!!
The problem that has been bothering me for almost a month was easily solved because of your advice! I am so excited that I can hardly contain myself.:XD::XD::XD: Although the joystick in the Wii still cannot be pushed to the edge (even with the dead zone set to 0...
Thank you very much for your response, my friend. I combined the GC2.0+ with a USB card reader and a PD power source into one board without making other modifications. After flashing the firmware, I started testing and encountered this issue.
I will try the reset method you mentioned.
Should...
GC2.0+ seems to have a malfunction. How can I troubleshoot it?
After testing the PSV2000 joystick without success, I tried reconnecting the SWITCH joystick for control. However, I found they also malfunctioned, only responding when I pressed down on the joystick connector with my finger. So...
Initially, I used 3.3V to power the joystick, but it still remained in a triggered state and became ineffective. Then, I tried powering the joystick with 5V, but it resulted in the same abnormal behavior. According to its datasheet, it should be fine as long as it doesn't exceed 5V.
I don't quite understand. I've adjusted and soldered the correct pin definitions, but it still remains in a triggered state and then shuts off. There's no response when I push the joystick. I found its documentation, and both 3.3V and 5V power supplies give the same result.
I tested the PSV2000 joystick and the PSPGO joystick, and they seem to have the same issue: they start operating on their own without moving the joystick. I tried soldering different pin configurations, but the result was the same. Has anyone successfully managed this...
I conducted this test because I was shocked by the heat generated by the Korean version of the Wii when it was powered on. The tests were conducted in the same environment for both versions. The Korean Wii can only last for 8 minutes before overheating and shutting down, whereas the American...
I replaced the NAND FPC cable, and amazingly, the Wii has restored the image. Next, I need to test the PSPGO joystick.
Additionally, I purchased a Korean version Wii. Besides fixing the 003 error, I found that even though it has a 4-layer motherboard, it still heats up more than other...
Apologies if this seems like a silly question, but after seemingly just bricking my 5th Wii and considering buying a 6th one, I'm starting to think about cost-saving measures. :'(
I've seen the operating current for the Wii in this thread, and it seems like a regular LDO should suffice...
Haha, I asked you about the PSPGO joystick before, but haven't had a chance to test it yet. My Wii seems to have died, so I'm planning to buy another Korean version Wii to modify.
The jumper wire was completed when I initially had video output, so it shouldn't be the main issue. Even after disconnecting VGA and using AV output, I couldn't get a video signal.
Thanks for your advice. Mainly, I'm not very skilled in 3D modeling and printing. I've also seen some printed shell qualities that don't seem as good as those from injection molding, so I still want to use the original GBOY shell.