Question PMS-2 not outputting 3.3v after adding VGA wiring to Wii MoBo

[Red Cyber Tail]

Background info:
I am in the process of building my ashida for the first time. I have been able to play games on it, and have everything (but VGA) hooked up at this point. My PMS-2 stopped outputting 3.3v after I tried upgrading from component to VGA. I had a pretty ugly solder bridge along the bottom left 8 pins of my AVE-RVL that I was able to clean up as best I could (foreshadowing) before soldering the V and H sync lines. After soldering everything up the display wouldn't power on. A little troubleshooting later I found the PMS-2 wasn't outputting 3.3v at all. Looking at the AVE-RVL I notice a little solder between the 5&6th and 6&7th pins. (See pictures.) All other outputs from the PMS-2 measure the correct voltage.

My question:
1. Did these little solder shorts fry my PMS-2 or Wii MoBo?
2. What is the best way to troubleshoot the PMS-2? Desolder everything and test it again with just the 21700 attatched?
3. This is my second post about this Ashida, should I be putting this in a worklog, or are individual posts okay? I'm new to using forms and am still a little clumsy.
4. Is there a way to remove the solder from the AVE-RVL? I tried using a solder sucker and quite a bit of flux. But, cannot get that last bit out.

Any input is appreciated.

 

[icy_system]

I had a very similar issue, probably the same. My 3.3v and ground were shorted together after I did VGA. The pins were connected with a little bit of solder, but I was able to fix it by putting a TON of flux and using braid over everything. Then I cleaned it with alcohol, and it was good! Here's the page where I was trying to figure it out: Worklog - The WiiCube (my first portable) | Page 4 | BitBuilt - Giving Life to Old Consoles

Also, I used a more blunt soldering iron tip, that probably helped. And correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure Vsync and Hsync shouldn't be twisted with each other.

 

[Stitches]

As counterproductive as it may seem, adding more solder can help with blobs like this. Getting all the tin into one mass and then using a desoldering braid to slowly suck up the blob usually works best. If you use a sucker pump the rapid air movement can cool the back of the blob as the front gets pulled in and leave bits behind, like what you're experiencing now

 

[Red Cyber Tail]

I disconnected the 3.3v, 1.8v, 1.15v, and 1v lines from the Wii MoBo in case the 3.3v (or something else) was shorted to ground like @icy_system mentioned. After testing the voltages with a multimeter the 3.3v (and other voltages of the PMS-2) are working again! Meaning the issue must be related to the board. I did connect a 3.3v line to via number 8 of the image below to change the "mode" to VGA as explained here. I think that might be part of the issue as well. (Assuming I messed up.)

I will try working with some soldering braid, I haven't had great luck with it in the past. @Stitches is right, I did try to use a solder sucker. So, that's reason enough for me to try something else. When desoldering I have experienced that using leaded solder is a bit easier to desolder due to the lower melting point. The challenge is that my leaded solder is super thick compared to my unleaded stuff. However, if making a glob is the goal, then hopefully it won't matter. I think using the thicker solder tip will help too.

UPDATE:
It's working like a champ. I did a lot of solder-desoldering on the bottom side of the chip. I found that sliding the soldering iron parallel to the chip's pins really helped. After a lot of work, a continuity test showed that the 3.3v and ground were still shorted. I did more soldering iron swiping and desoldering till the short was gone. Everything is looking good now. Thanks for your help!