RVL-PSU

Noah

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RVL-PSU.png


RVL-PSU

The RVL-PSU is a custom regulator solution for your portable and non-portable projects. It provides system regulators: 1V, 1.15V, 3.3V, and 5V. RVL-PSU does not provide any battery management. For projects involving batteries, it is recommended to use the RVL-PMS instead.
Improvements made from the previous version:​
  • Screw holes on the corner of the PCB for mounting in your enclosure
  • Optimized components and PCB layout
  • Solder pad jumper for setting power to the 5V regulator if it is not required for your application

Specifications:​
  • Vin (Min): 5V
  • Vin (Max): 17V
Files:​
 

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CrazyGadget

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I have created a revised BOM, as the current one does not contain any Ref Des's, a lot of the passive components are out of stock, the quantities for components do not match the quantity actually used on the board (set for best unit cost), and contains a couple components that aren't even used on the board. In the new BOM, all of this is fixed, just plug it into Digikey and go.

With that being said, there is the issue that the TI buck regs and the inductors used on this board are out of stock on both Digikey and Mouser. I bought some aliexpress knockoff chips and inductors, and assembled my boards using them. After wiring one of my boards up to a 6-layer, I can confirm that the ICs and inductors fit the bill and work as they should (at least for now).

Here are the exact listings I got my ICs and inductors:
 

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I have created a revised BOM, as the current one does not contain any Ref Des's, a lot of the passive components are out of stock, the quantities for components do not match the quantity actually used on the board (set for best unit cost), and contains a couple components that aren't even used on the board. In the new BOM, all of this is fixed, just plug it into Digikey and go.

With that being said, there is the issue that the TI buck regs and the inductors used on this board are out of stock on both Digikey and Mouser. I bought some aliexpress knockoff chips and inductors, and assembled my boards using them. After wiring one of my boards up to a 6-layer, I can confirm that the ICs and inductors fit the bill and work as they should (at least for now).

Here are the exact listings I got my ICs and inductors:
Hello friend, I want to make my board for my wii but I don't know how to place the components correctly, you have an image of your board or a guide on how to place the components correctly.
 

CrazyGadget

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Hello friend, I want to make my board for my wii but I don't know how to place the components correctly, you have an image of your board or a guide on how to place the components correctly.
2021-10-03 11_15_42-PCB Prototype - JLCPCB.png


All of the Reference Designators (Ref Des's) in the BOM (that I updated in my previous post) match to where the components go on the board (little white text next to all the components). If you're wondering how to orient the ICs, see the little white dot at the top left of the IC footprints. That should match with the marking on the IC itself. All other components on this board are non-polar, meaning that their orientation does not matter.
 
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sbruh

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I have created a revised BOM, as the current one does not contain any Ref Des's, a lot of the passive components are out of stock, the quantities for components do not match the quantity actually used on the board (set for best unit cost), and contains a couple components that aren't even used on the board. In the new BOM, all of this is fixed, just plug it into Digikey and go.

With that being said, there is the issue that the TI buck regs and the inductors used on this board are out of stock on both Digikey and Mouser. I bought some aliexpress knockoff chips and inductors, and assembled my boards using them. After wiring one of my boards up to a 6-layer, I can confirm that the ICs and inductors fit the bill and work as they should (at least for now).

Here are the exact listings I got my ICs and inductors:
You are a godsend dude.
 
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Coming in super late with this one, as I've been trying to get the RVL-PSU manufactured for my own hobby usage.

I ran into some issues with getting these boards manufactured with assembly (as opposed to doing them myself), since:

1) There isn't a CPL file that is included in this post that gives the coordinates of where the components should be placed
2) Generating a CPL file from the Eagle files in the OP attached .zip (RVL-PSU Eagle Files) actually leaves out the placements / designations for C7, C3, C11, R3, R6

I got the process started with a Gerbers upload to PCBWay, and I had to provide a CPL / BOM.
I used CrazyGadget's Revised BOM .csv file
I generated a CPL from the Eagle File, but then PCBWay told me I was missing designations


So I actually had to go through the eagle file, rename designations (since I think some were re-used and kept the same name, for example C7 would be named some shit like "C9" or C3 was labelled as "C4".) I've attached a few things:

1. A corrected Eagle board with the components named correctly such that exporting it should provide a CPL that includes all components so if you try to use a service to assemble they won't be asking Yo what the fuck where are components X Y and Z supposed to go?
2. A generated CPL from the updated eagle board... well it's more like I went through every line of the CPL that I generated previously and hand checked things were correct.
3. The fruits of this journey are pictured! Red PCB PSU! and I took a multimeter to it. It's outputting correctly!

Hopefully I didn't miss anything, but this thread was super helpful in getting me a huge headstart.
 

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I have a question
can we attach 4.2v batteries with this board directly or do we have to use a buck boost converter at the input
 

Stitches

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I have a question
can we attach 4.2v batteries with this board directly or do we have to use a buck boost converter at the input
If you put the cells in a 2s arrangement to get 7.4v nominal output, you can feed that to a PSU and it'll be enough voltage to work
 
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Hi!
Thanks for uploading the Gerber files.
I'm currently getting them manufactured and I can't wait for them to come in the mail! This is going to be my first portable mod but I have some electrical knowledge so it shouldn't be too hard.
 

Bayou

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Hello, friend. This is a great place!
I apologize for my limited English. I'm trying to create a custom voltage stabilizer for the Wii, referencing Noah's design. Because my knowledge in this area is limited, I have a portable power supply that outputs 5V2A (approximately). I'd like to know if I can skip the 5V regulator circuit and just add a 3A self-recovery fuse.
Also, I want to add a voltage regulator here to provide 1.8V (removing the Wii's LDO), but I don't know how to calculate the resistor values. Therefore, I consulted CHATGPT, and it suggested choosing 18kΩ for R1 and 10kΩ for R2. To validate this, I asked CHATGPT to calculate the resistor values for 1.15V, but the results differed from the actual resistors in the RVL-PSU. This has left me puzzled. Is it because CHATGPT made an error, or is the output of 5V2A not suitable for the RVL-PSU?
If it's an error from CHATGPT, does anyone know what resistances should be chosen for R7 and R8 for 1.8V?
I want it to be able to provide 1V, 1.15V, 1.8V, 3.3V, and 5V. Please forgive my possibly very foolish confusion.
Attached are the reference schematics (Figure 1) as well as some of my rather foolish modification ideas (Figure 2).

2@I%F[T1F%H]]O~RIVZE%6S.png
2XAH5@UL5ASM_O@}WK8E{{V.png
 

Stitches

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Hello, friend. This is a great place!
I apologize for my limited English. I'm trying to create a custom voltage stabilizer for the Wii, referencing Noah's design. Because my knowledge in this area is limited, I have a portable power supply that outputs 5V2A (approximately). I'd like to know if I can skip the 5V regulator circuit and just add a 3A self-recovery fuse.
Also, I want to add a voltage regulator here to provide 1.8V (removing the Wii's LDO), but I don't know how to calculate the resistor values. Therefore, I consulted CHATGPT, and it suggested choosing 18kΩ for R1 and 10kΩ for R2. To validate this, I asked CHATGPT to calculate the resistor values for 1.15V, but the results differed from the actual resistors in the RVL-PSU. This has left me puzzled. Is it because CHATGPT made an error, or is the output of 5V2A not suitable for the RVL-PSU?
If it's an error from CHATGPT, does anyone know what resistances should be chosen for R7 and R8 for 1.8V?
I want it to be able to provide 1V, 1.15V, 1.8V, 3.3V, and 5V. Please forgive my possibly very foolish confusion.
Attached are the reference schematics (Figure 1) as well as some of my rather foolish modification ideas (Figure 2).

View attachment 30928View attachment 30929
Don't ask ChatGPT questions and expect correct answers. Especially about electrical engineering. The equation for finding the Rset resistor values for a given output voltage is in the datasheet for that specific regulator. It should be alongside a table of commonly used output voltages and their Rset values.

Also, 5v2A may not be enough to run the system in a stable manner. 5v3A will be more stable, and yeah you can skip the 5v regulator if you plan to use 5v as the input voltage.
 

Bayou

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Don't ask ChatGPT questions and expect correct answers. Especially about electrical engineering. The equation for finding the Rset resistor values for a given output voltage is in the datasheet for that specific regulator. It should be alongside a table of commonly used output voltages and their Rset values.

Also, 5v2A may not be enough to run the system in a stable manner. 5v3A will be more stable, and yeah you can skip the 5v regulator if you plan to use 5v as the input voltage.
Thank you so much for your response, you're a hero!
It looks like I have to give up on this 5V2A mobile power supply design. Fortunately, I've discovered a new power management design here (there are treasures everywhere!). I plan to reference it to build a new power management system!
 
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