Question USB Corruption and RVLoader issue

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Due to some reason my USB got corrupted (I think it was probably bad connections between the trim and the PMS-PD) and my Ashida would no longer boot.

After correcting my USB connections, by twisting more tightly, reducing length, and cleaning solder joints, I attempted to reboot with nothing but essential files on my USB, and nothing.

So I deleted the RVLoader folder inside of the apps folder and replaced it with brand new files from ttheAurelio's zip file but now my Ashida will boot to this screen and then stay there indefinitely.

Slightly concerned I may have actually just completely ruined the portable.

Is there anything I can do?

[UPDATE] Got it to boot. These things are happening:

-Screen glitching
-Chip temperature constantly switching between positive and negative temp
-Functioned for about 15 seconds
-Showed this on screen (2nd pic)
 

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Unfortunately I can't tonight due to my schedule, maybe tomorrow night I could. I think I might try to remove the VGA lines and run composite to see if maybe I'm an idiot and didn't apply the VGA patch when I ran the installer again.

Hopefully things work out, if not I'll just start all over, because I WILL have a fully functioning Ashida that doesn't shit the bed randomly one day lol
 
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Due to some reason my USB got corrupted (I think it was probably bad connections between the trim and the PMS-PD) and my Ashida would no longer boot.

After correcting my USB connections, by twisting more tightly, reducing length, and cleaning solder joints, I attempted to reboot with nothing but essential files on my USB, and nothing.

So I deleted the RVLoader folder inside of the apps folder and replaced it with brand new files from ttheAurelio's zip file but now my Ashida will boot to this screen and then stay there indefinitely.

Slightly concerned I may have actually just completely ruined the portable.

Is there anything I can do?

[UPDATE] Got it to boot. These things are happening:

-Screen glitching
-Chip temperature constantly switching between positive and negative temp
-Functioned for about 15 seconds
-Showed this on screen (2nd pic)
I am having the same exact issue been working on it for 3 hours now. Screen has purple and green dot artifacts and sometimes loads then crashes and sometimes displays DSI Exception. Rewired and tried 3 usb drives all formatted correctly, tried a USB to SD adapter which worked shortly then crashed. I'm so confused.
 
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I am having the same exact issue been working on it for 3 hours now. Screen has purple and green dot artifacts and sometimes loads then crashes and sometimes displays DSI Exception. Rewired and tried 3 usb drives all formatted correctly, tried a USB to SD adapter which worked shortly then crashed. I'm so confused.
I ended up disassembling mine and did continuity checks on the board to see if the board was absolutely fucked.

Found extremely low resistance between 3.3v and ground (about 2.5k) as opposed to the normal 7-8k.

My only guess as to how that happened was my fairly poor MX Chip relocation job. Neglected to put kapton tape on the underside of the chip when I hot glued it on. And TP118 was placed directly over my USB. My guess is the closing of the case and it not being really cemented in place and covered with kapton tape caused it to short to the USB housing.

Not sure if that by itself caused the short between 3.3v and ground, or if it was solely the USB corruption.

So now I'm just gonna restart from scratch and be better this time around. Maybe try to do the bluetooth relocation as well.

Wish you the best in figuring out what's going on with yours, but I think I figured at least one of the reasons mine stopped working.
 
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I ended up disassembling mine and did continuity checks on the board to see if the board was absolutely fucked.

Found extremely low resistance between 3.3v and ground (about 2.5k) as opposed to the normal 7-8k.

My only guess as to how that happened was my fairly poor MX Chip relocation job. Neglected to put kapton tape on the underside of the chip when I hot glued it on. And TP118 was placed directly over my USB. My guess is the closing of the case and it not being really cemented in place and covered with kapton tape caused it to short to the USB housing.

Not sure if that by itself caused the short between 3.3v and ground, or if it was solely the USB corruption.

So now I'm just gonna restart from scratch and be better this time around. Maybe try to do the bluetooth relocation as well.

Wish you the best in figuring out what's going on with yours, but I think I figured at least one of the reasons mine stopped working.
Wish you the best as well, attaching two pics for you. I was powering the USB directly from my 5V PSU source but it works better when power line is attached directly to the capacitor on the top of the motherboard in order to supply the motherboard 5V not just the USB. First trim I removed the components for the usb lines (powering usb not from capacitor on top of board but directly)... you can see where I drew the red line. Finally got it to boot into RVLoader but pink and green artifacts still everywhere. Next trim, I kept the usb components intact and soldered to the vias in red and it works.
 

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I ended up disassembling mine and did continuity checks on the board to see if the board was absolutely fucked.

Found extremely low resistance between 3.3v and ground (about 2.5k) as opposed to the normal 7-8k.

My only guess as to how that happened was my fairly poor MX Chip relocation job. Neglected to put kapton tape on the underside of the chip when I hot glued it on. And TP118 was placed directly over my USB. My guess is the closing of the case and it not being really cemented in place and covered with kapton tape caused it to short to the USB housing.

Not sure if that by itself caused the short between 3.3v and ground, or if it was solely the USB corruption.

So now I'm just gonna restart from scratch and be better this time around. Maybe try to do the bluetooth relocation as well.

Wish you the best in figuring out what's going on with yours, but I think I figured at least one of the reasons mine stopped working.
Did you desolder all the voltage wires from the Wii before checking the resistances? The PMS and other such peripherals will affect the reading if they're connected at the time, regardless of if they're powered or not.
 
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Did you desolder all the voltage wires from the Wii before checking the resistances? The PMS and other such peripherals will affect the reading if they're connected at the time, regardless of if they're powered or not.
Ya, I desoldered every single wire in the portable to start over.

After realizing some of my mistakes with wire routing and how messy the portable was in general I wanted to just restart entirely.

I want to have super clean wiring and solder joints to really ensure that I don't have to deal with any random issues like this again.

Not to mention if I ever want to build one of those gorgeous clear resin ones that Ginger built in I have to be better so my portable doesn't look like shit.
 
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Ya, I desoldered every single wire in the portable to start over.

After realizing some of my mistakes with wire routing and how messy the portable was in general I wanted to just restart entirely.

I want to have super clean wiring and solder joints to really ensure that I don't have to deal with any random issues like this again.

Not to mention if I ever want to build one of those gorgeous clear resin ones that Ginger built in I have to be better so my portable doesn't look like shit.
I have had great success using Chipquik NC191 flux in addition to my solder. Gets my solder joints perfect everytime.
 
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