Model Louii Twoii CAD Files

[GingerOfOz]

I've updated the Louii CAD files to be compatible with the 4LayerTech suite, as well as a variety of other small features to improve the build.

It's 2AM and I'm sleepy, so I'll flesh out this post with more details when I'm not exhausted, but here's a quick rundown.

The attached files include the main pieces of the build along with all the buttons and mounts in .ipt, .stl, and .stp format, along with the Gerbers/EAGLE files of three custom PCBs. The custom PCBs are essentially required unless you want to design your own weird 3D printed mounts, but I'm not helping with that.

A full BOM for the build can be found here.

Some general notes for the build:

• The Wii trim is an OMGWTF trim with some slightly closer cuts. You'll need to get right up close to the NAND lines on the top, the 1.15v cap on the bottom, the NAND cap, and cut a bit in next to the AVE. Make sure to sand the inward cut near the AVE really well.

• The 4LayerTech boards have had some weird interference issues, so keep these in mind:
  • Run a ground wire directly from the PMSLite/2 to the U-Amp. Don't connect any other ground wires to the U-Amp other than this one.
  • Be sure to shield the MC line from the Wii to the U-Amp.
  • You will likely need to connect HPS from the U-Amp to the Wii whether or not you use the RVLHUD config. I've had both of the Louiis I've built shut off when plugging in the headphone jack unless that line was connected for whatever reason.
  • The SDW and SCW lines that go between the Wii and the PMS may need to be shielded. If your battery level/temperature keep going on and off, then you'll have to shield those wires.
• The Switch joysticks are held in place by the controller circuit boards, so actually screwing them into place is optional.
• The dpad for the build is annoying to source, but I don't want to work on this build anymore. If you update the front piece to work with a more common dpad, feel free to let me know and I'll add your files to the .zip with proper credit.
• Make sure to order the two controller PCBs at 0.8mm thickness. I've had clearance issues with 1.6mm thick boards.
• I'll add other things to this list as they come up.

I did a couple of live streams where I put a Louii together with these files, so if you have 12 hours to burn or want to watch a specific part, then every part of the build is showcased here (I'll add chapters soon to make it easier to find specific segments):

Good luck to anyone who decides to try out this build!

(artsy files aren't included, I just haven't built a Louii with the default files yet)

 

[Viilmo]

well I didn't expect an update, but with these new files im definitely gonna build one sometime (When I have the money to do so).

 

[Customledmods]

Thanks for the updated files, i will be building one myself soon.

 

[cy]

Thanks a lot for releasing these Ginger!

I've modified the Front STL to accommodate OEM Switch directional buttons. It needs to be re-scaled due to my modeling software, syncing the scaling to the other model in Prusa Slicer should do the trick however. Credit for this goes 100% to Ginger since I just copied these buttons outlines from the old MainFront.stl

 

[SparkleBear]

The only thing keeping me from building Louii Oneii was the lack of real dpad. Im DEFINITELY building one now... I love the abxy layout for my SNES games. Thanks mate!

 

[SparkleBear]

Im getting 5 of each of the pcbs from JLC. PM me if you want one or two of them

 

[R. G. Marigold]

Why not just use these buttons instead having to separate links for the ABXY and D-Pad?

 

[SparkleBear]

I couldnt find the dpad either... Wiirdo D-Pad.

Do you have a printable model of the dpad by chance?

 

[Evilemi]

This is how close you have to trim at minimum

I can confirm the old mounts for buttons will work.

 

[Jpin]

is it 1 or 2 layers good enough for the custom PCB's?

 

[SparkleBear]

The boards are designed as 2 layer (top and bottom) copper layers. So 1 layer boards will not suffice... 1 layer per side? That’s ok

 

[Jpin]

Great, thanks @SparkleBear

 

[meepledemeep]

Thanks a ton! A friend and I are working on one together, no doubt it will be great, as long as we don’t make any REALLY stupid mistakes

 

[SparkleBear]

@meepledemeep The most common BIG mistakes have to do with power. Battery polarity swapped, hooking up batteries with shorts on the voltage lines from Wii layers or wrong wiring. While you’re working, just be diligent to just do a continuity check between voltage lines and ground before connecting power. (1v8 usually meters around 40R which can beep some meters but that’s normal) I’d only worry if it’s a dead short or super low resistance (below 10r start to worry). Also be aware that there is current present in the board even if the pms is “off”. Vsys standy power can still fry stuff if you accidentally short thing

If you can avoid doing work to the build while power is connected to pms you’ll avoid accidental shorts. Once my strand of solder from the spool whipped into the pms and fried the bq … putting a simple switch between one of the battery lines and the pms can be a quick way to turn it on and off. Or just remove the battery.

Also be careful that you don’t have anything under your screen when it’s in the case.. easy to crack these lcd.

When trimming just be sure you clear the nand lines. Give them space and sand yourself close. The nand lines are the most vulnerable things close to the trim lines. This is not a game over as you can manually wire the nand pins to the vias (as Ginger did in the stream) but it can be an easily avoided headache. I did this on my first gwii too… had to manually wire 6 pins.


most other “mistakes” won’t be catastrophic. keep your iron clean so your joints stay clean and you will avoid tracking down cold joints. Trim the ends of your wires so that the exposed length is just the size of the pad you’re soldering to. Also, color coding your wires can help you avoid connecting ground to power lines as well as just keeping your brain from having to keep track of everything. I just use the same color for all ground wires at least. Test after each step in the process so you know if you veered off courses.

Take your time and check your work! You got it dude

hopefully that helps!

cheers

 

[meepledemeep]

@meepledemeep The most common BIG mistakes have to do with power. Battery polarity swapped, hooking up batteries with shorts on the voltage lines from Wii layers or wrong wiring. While you’re working, just be diligent to just do a continuity check between voltage lines and ground before connecting power. (1v8 usually meters around 40R which can beep some meters but that’s normal) I’d only worry if it’s a dead short or super low resistance (below 10r start to worry). Also be aware that there is current present in the board even if the pms is “off”. Vsys standy power can still fry stuff if you accidentally short thing

If you can avoid doing work to the build while power is connected to pms you’ll avoid accidental shorts. Once my strand of solder from the spool whipped into the pms and fried the bq … putting a simple switch between one of the battery lines and the pms can be a quick way to turn it on and off. Or just remove the battery.

Also be careful that you don’t have anything under your screen when it’s in the case.. easy to crack these lcd.

When trimming just be sure you clear the nand lines. Give them space and sand yourself close. The nand lines are the most vulnerable things close to the trim lines. This is not a game over as you can manually wire the nand pins to the vias (as Ginger did in the stream) but it can be an easily avoided headache. I did this on my first gwii too… had to manually wire 6 pins.


most other “mistakes” won’t be catastrophic. keep your iron clean so your joints stay clean and you will avoid tracking down cold joints. Trim the ends of your wires so that the exposed length is just the size of the pad you’re soldering to. Also, color coding your wires can help you avoid connecting ground to power lines as well as just keeping your brain from having to keep track of everything. I just use the same color for all ground wires at least. Test after each step in the process so you know if you veered off courses.

Take your time and check your work! You got it dude

hopefully that helps!

cheers

Thanks a ton for all the tips, thankfully my friend and I already have some experience with similar projects. We also know someone very good with all sorts of electrical/software engineering. Appreciate the tips, thanks again

 

[sonof151]

i order the 3d model parts on pcbway, but they say a part is the left trigger is too thin to i tell them that its fine or do i have to install a 3d modeling sofware to changer it?

 

[dababy]

I have an ender 3 and I’ve found printing slim triggers works fine. What material are u getting it printed in

 

[sonof151]

I have an ender 3 and I’ve found printing slim triggers works fine. What material are u getting it printed in

resin UTR 8360

 

[Camden M.]

Thank you very much! Definitely going to try this soon, maybe as a starter project to get into portabalizing.

 

[Nos_E3ks]

Im getting 5 of each of the pcbs from JLC. PM me if you want one or two of them
View attachment 21878

Where did you get those? I might have to pick myself up one of each for my build. thank you