Solved No Composite Signal Issue

[harassafras]

I'm into the assembly stage of my Ashida build and I stopped to test it again. I tested after I had finished my Wii trim and got a composite signal but am now getting nothing. The fan turns on so I can tell it is running. Hoping someone can spot something that I'm missing. I tested both batteries and they each had a voltage of about 4.

 

[Bubberiffic]

When you installed RVLoader, did you enable the VGA patch? That could be your issue.
It also doesn’t hurt to rewire composite again in case you had made a slight mistake.
You could try to wire Composite on the front of the board:

Also even if the fan is spinning it doesn’t mean that your system is running 100%. It just means that the PMS received the signal to turn on from the power switch.
I hope you can fix the issue and get input from others as well, good luck!

 

[harassafras]

I don't know if you can tell from the picture but I do have the composite wired to the front. It's just grounded on the back. I did wire it to the back and moved it wondering if that was the issue.

I did enable VGA, and like I said I got the composite signal when I tested the Wii board by itself after the trim.

 

[Stitches]

Composite will work as normal with the VGA patch installed if MODE is not connected to 3.3v. Your MODE line is not connected to 3.3v, so composite *should* work as normal

 

[harassafras]

Composite will work as normal with the VGA patch installed if MODE is not connected to 3.3v. Your MODE line is not connected to 3.3v, so composite *should* work as normal

Do you have any suggestions? Should I just try re-soldering all of my connections and see if that helps?

 

[Stitches]

A magic reflow is worth a try. I don't see any visually obvious defects or mistakes in your photos, so I'm not really sure what the issue might be.

Have you checked the voltages coming from the PMS to see if they're all as they should be?

 

[harassafras]

A magic reflow is worth a try. I don't see any visually obvious defects or mistakes in your photos, so I'm not really sure what the issue might be.

Have you checked the voltages coming from the PMS to see if they're all as they should be?

Everything is reading correctly except 1.8 is reading at .8 from the PMS. I did leave that hooked up to the audio interface board though, not sure if that would affect anything as it didn't affect 3.3.

 

[Stitches]

0.8v is definitely not right. If you disconnect 1.8v from the U-Amp, does it return to the expected voltage?

 

[Thomothy]

Your UAMP jumpers aren't soldered properly for the wii with HUD you want all 3 jumpers closed

With just one the UAMP is looking for 3v3 rather than 1v8 that's what is probably causing the issues.

Wesk designed the ashida to use the WIIs I2S digital audio interface so that's why you hook up 1v8 there.

 

[Stitches]

Your UAMP jumpers aren't soldered properly for the wii with HUD you want all 3 jumpers closed
View attachment 33097
With just one the UAMP is looking for 3v3 rather than 1v8 that's what is probably causing the issues.

Wesk designed the ashida to use the WIIs I2S digital audio interface so that's why you hook up 1v8 there.

The Ashida uses i2s audio input with an analog wheel for volume control, so J0/1/2 being open and J3 being closed is the correct configuration. DP is internally connected to the 1.8v line and should read 1.8v. nvm I am blind

@harassafras Looking at the photos again though, I notice that there are wires soldered to the volume wheel pins. The volume wheel is already connected to the U-Amp via PCB traces, so what are the wires for? It's hard to see clearly, but it kinda looks kinda like you've soldered a magnet wire between 1.8v on the wheel and GND on the U-AMP, which would explain the voltage drop.

 

[Thomothy]

The Ashida uses i2s audio input with an analog wheel for volume control, so J0/1/2 being open and J3 being closed is the correct configuration. DP is internally connected to the 1.8v line and should read 1.8v

Both having no jumpers or all three should work just fine. The issue is they don't have either of those. They have it set up for analog audio meaning the uamp is looking for 3v3 and is probably pulling their 1v8 line low because of it.

Also I like having the HUD so closing all 3 is my go to. But if they don't want the HUD then they can use some solder wick to clean that jumper.

 

[Stitches]

Both having no jumpers or all three should work just fine. The issue is they don't have either of those. They have it set up for analog audio meaning the uamp is looking for 3v3 and is probably pulling their 1v8 line low because of it.
View attachment 33098

Also I like having the HUD so closing all 3 is my go to. But if they don't want the HUD then they can use some solder wick to clean that jumper.

Shit, you're right...... how did I miss that? I should probably go to bed......

I still have questions about the weird wiring tho

 

[harassafras]

Ha! Your guess is as good as mine, I'm learning as I go. I think I assumed that I could choose between analog and digital. Thanks for catching that! I'll have to rewire tomorrow and update.

 

[harassafras]

Rewired and got a composite signal. Thanks for everyone's help!