Backstory:
I was recently inspired to make an Ultraslim after I found a 79001 for cheap. I also took advantage that I had an Analog2HDMI (ElectronAnalog) board laying around, so I decided to implement it to the design. This was further compelled by Tito's recent video on this board. So, as I went through the main Ultraslim thread, I noticed that many people were pitching many great ideas and contributing to the design in some way. I knew I wanted to add USB-C PD since, for one, I didn't have a PS2 PSU. And secondly, like the huge space reduction possible with modern power adapters (Like the Anker Nano Pro). I also didn't want to spend $25+ on a PS2 phat bezel just for the tiny logo. So I went through the thread and compiled some modifications that caught my attention, aswell as some minor tweaks of my own.
Features and changes:
3D Printing Guide
Build "Guide" and tips
Once configured to the 9V setting, I recommend probing the output to make sure you are getting 9v (while wired to a proper 9V capable PD power adapter, of course). Once ready, set aside the PD board, and remove the DC power input barrel jack on the PS2 board. I recommend using a hot air gun in this step. Once removed, cut two ~2-3" (cut more than you need, not less) 22 AWG wires. These will connect the output of the PD board to the input of where the barrel connector once was. Simply connect the corresponding terminals (Positive to Positive, Negative to Negative). The central hole is positive, it's seperated by the ground polygon around it. The other 2 holes are ground, simply choose one to wire to.
You should now have a PS2 with USB-C input! You can test boot in this step by connecting it to a USB PD charger and turning it on (via the repurposed lid switch).
Now, reattach the heatsink and fan onto the top of the board (don't forget the thermal pad and fan wire). Only screw in the fan, but not the heatsink/shielding. Before doing anything with the top piece, salvage the PS2 logo and retainer bracket from your stock shell. There should be a metal bracket behind the logo in the top piece above the disc drive. There should be 2 plastic bits holding it down, simply bend them back to release the retainer and logo piece.
Once removed, trim the retainer bracket to 20mm or less as shown above. Insert the PS2 logo piece into the whole on the front of the top case (oriented horizontally). Once it's pushed in all the way, insert the metal retainer into the slot on the inside of the case, behind the hole. Make sure it is fully inserted! Once in, you can add a small dap of CA/Super glue onto it to secure it in place. You should now be left with a swivling PS2 logo (for free)!
Now it gets difficult. To wire the ElectronAnalog board, you will need 5, 30 AWG wires and 2, 26 AWG wires running from the board to the pads near the AV port. Again, I strongly recommend that you watch Tito's video on this to get a visual. In short, begin by shorting the Analog/SPDIF jumper on the back of the ElectronAnalog board. You can definitely use SPDIF, but I've heard that some games don't support it. Then, screw the ElectronAnalog into it's screw holes on the top shell. DON'T FORGET TO ADD THE POWER BUTTON AT THIS STAGE, DON'T BE LIKE ME!
Now, run the 7 wires required from the PS2's component output (and 5v/GND) to the holes next to their corresponding markings on the silkscreen. What I did - was to get the whole roll of 30 AWG wire, expose and tin the end, and solder it to a pad on the PS2. Then, I'd run it right and under the console to where the ElectronAnalog was mounted. And then from there get a rough estimate for the length. Always give extra slack (an inch or two) to make the assembly easier (and reduce mechanical strain on the joints). After getting a sense for the appropriate length, cut the end from the roll and solder that end to the ElectronAnalog. Now just rinse and repeat 6 more times. REMEMBER: USE 30 AWG FOR THE COMPONENT AND AUDIO CONNECTIONS, AND 26 AWG FOR 5V AND GND TO THE ELECTRONANALOG. Even though it "only" consumes 300ma at 5v, I would recommend to use the thicker wire to reduce voltage drop (and for piece of mind lol).
Eventually (Hopefully) you'll end up with a fully USB-C and HDMI capable PS2! Albeit, quite bare at this point. The last major soldering hurlde is with the SD adapter module. As you should know, the Ultraslim uses an SD card for storing games (MX4SIO). This is much faster than USB loading. And once again, this is discussed in the main thread aswell as Titos video. In this case, the module actually makes it simpler to solder! You have proper holes to solder to, and the data connections are clearly written on the silkscreen. The only difference comes with the slider switch wiring, which we'll get to. Before you begin, start by removing all the passives on the module.
This can be done easily with your iron and some solder. Just add a good amount of solder onto your tip and "smear" off the components. Make sure to clean up and remove any shorts that may have happened during this process. Once you have prepped the module, solder the data wires from Memory Card Slot 2 to the module. Follow Tito's main video for a good visual aid. Wesk also made a great post with good resources. You'll notice that there isn't an ACK pad on the module. In our case, we will wire the switch in a different manner. @icd2k3 shows the wiring pretty well
We are basically just shorting between the ACK and GND on the motherboard with the switch. No resistor needed! At this stage, your PS2 should look a bit like mine: (Minus the screws, make sure the screw posts are empty. this was just for testing)
The good news is that, Thats it! You have soldered the regulator, power switch, ElectronAnalog, SD module, and the slide switch. Now the last part is to close it back up. You should have the ElectronAnalog mounted at this stage. Make sure everything is working at this stage and that the SD card is recognized. There are good sources on how to setup the software side, of which there are several guides online. Now, this is the stage where you have the freedom to go about assembly in whatever way you want (and I recommend doing what's best in your case), but I'll just explain what I did - as a guide. Start by making sure the board fits well, and the memory card ports have slid into the case. If you haven't already, attach the USB-C board onto the mount. I personally used a little bit of CA glue to make sure it doesn't come off, this is a bit unorthodox, but guarantees that it'll stay anchored. After its mounted correctly, screw in the USB-C board mounting piece. Once it's secure, lower the board again and make sure it rests flush against the screw posts. Once the PS2, ElectronAnalog, and USB-PD are securely in place (Again, don't forget the Power button like I did!), Now it's time to attach the SD card module and slider switch. Begin by adding another small dab of CA glue onto the SD adapter mount, and firmly attach the module onto it. Once attached, attach the SD card mounting piece. Note: I designed it to be able to friction fit and stay secured with the console's mounting pressure alone. If that doesn't work in your case, use thin and flat screws to screw onto the posts. I recommened adding kapton to insulate the screws from possibly shorting something on the board (I doubt they touch the board or any SMD components, but I like to be sure). Once the SD module is attached securely, insert the slider switch into the whole to the right of the SD card slot. Even though this should be friction fit, I added some CA to keep it attached well. Once everything is fully attached where it should be, slide the bottom shell into the top shell. The method that works for me is to go at an angle towards the front controller ports, and then pulling it inward a bit. Press down on both sides and make sure nothing is buldging or blocking a good seal. Once confirmed, use the 4 large screws from the stock PS2 slim case and screw both halfs together. And there you have it...
I'll be attaching the STEP files (if applicable) and STLs of the current version. This wouldn't have been possible without the people credited, and shows the importance of OSHW. Please know that this is very much not a perfect model, and I myself am very new to CAD software. There are likely issues with it. Specifically with the SD covers. I included both the original and a slim version that I made. Only the slim version didn't buldge out on mine, but it's harder to print (got lazy) and you'll need shorter screws. Lmk which one works out better! My final request is that, if possible, you launch a CAD program and change whatever you see fit. Even if it's just tinkering!
P.S: This was written at 4 A.M. There are most definitely errors in here. Please let me know what can be changed or fixed. I gotta go sleep, bye y'all.
Credits:
@Wesk - Genius of our time, designer of the Ultraslim
@jerikson - Designing the original stock logo retainer mount
@Androxilogin - Designing the SD card mount
@TheFizz - Designing the PD board mount
@icd2k3 - Pictures and MX4SIO wiring guide
I was recently inspired to make an Ultraslim after I found a 79001 for cheap. I also took advantage that I had an Analog2HDMI (ElectronAnalog) board laying around, so I decided to implement it to the design. This was further compelled by Tito's recent video on this board. So, as I went through the main Ultraslim thread, I noticed that many people were pitching many great ideas and contributing to the design in some way. I knew I wanted to add USB-C PD since, for one, I didn't have a PS2 PSU. And secondly, like the huge space reduction possible with modern power adapters (Like the Anker Nano Pro). I also didn't want to spend $25+ on a PS2 phat bezel just for the tiny logo. So I went through the thread and compiled some modifications that caught my attention, aswell as some minor tweaks of my own.
Features and changes:
-Added @TheFizz's HW-398 PD board mount
-RE'ed @jerikson's stock PS2 Slim rotatable Logo holder
-RE'ed @Androxilogin's SD Adapter module mount
-Fixed HDMI overhang geometry error, reinforced front right screw post.
-And, of course, @Wesk's A2HDMI variant
3D Printing Guide
The printing process is essentially identical to the standard Ultraslim 1.2. I'll just share the steps I took to get a good print. First off, the result will only be as good as your printer's tuning. This may seem obvious - but I've seen many Ultraslims with underextrusion, poor bed adhesion, stringing/retraction issues, ringing, Z-binding, etc. I spent a week straight just fighting with my printer to get good results. If you use Klipper (which I highly recommend), please go through the entire documentation for tuning. This includes: PID tuning, Pressure Advance, Resonance Compensation, Z-Endstop offset, Bed mesh/leveling, and E-Steps. This may seem overwhelming, but if you take it one by one... it's doable. Once all of the following have been calibrated well, THEN move onto slicer settings. Important slicer settings include: Retraction, Flow, Perimeter speed, Supports, Cooling, First layer speed/flow, Infill, Temperature, Infill/Perimeter overlap, and Bridging. Take your time and verify changes by printing calibration pieces. A poorly tuned parameter will only make it worse down the road. Now, on the topic of bed adhesion... it's almost mandatory to use a textured PEI bed. Not only does it look great, but it grips onto the filament layed above. However, even with these steps, bed adhesion might still be an issue. This is due to hot filament cooling once layed above a layer, causing tension and pulling on the lower layer. My first 2 shell prints had raised corners, even though I got the bed levelling okay. To solve this, I did 2 things. Firstly, I added a 5mm brim in the slicer. Secondly, as recommended by Wesk, I applied a thin layer of Glue Stick onto the bed and rubbed it with a damp cloth (while the bed is cold). This sounds strange, but the damp rag would buff out and distribute the adhestive evenly - as my first attempt of using the glue stick resulting in streaking. As for the rest of the print, it should be a cakewalk. The ports and vents shouldn't be an issue if you have good bridging settings (which you should). However, the memory card and controller parts might need a bit of help with supports. Since I used PrusaSlicer, I simply added a support enforcer in that area.
Build "Guide" and tips
You will need:
-3D printed shell pieces, power button, SD card cover, and USB-C retainer piece.
-Electron Shepherd's ElectronAnalog (a.k.a Analog2Hdmi) board. Official Site
-Trimmed and prepped SCPH 79001 board.
-A PS2 logo and metal retainer from stock PS2 slim shell
-30,26, and 22 AWG insulated stranded wire (preferrably silicone).
-Screws (Go through your junk drawer and see what fits).
-MagicGate memory card with FMCB and OPL v1.2.0
-HW-398 USB-C PD negotiation board. Aliexpress (Pick the "Mini" version)
-SD card arduino adapter module. Aliexpress
-Compatible MicroSD card Amazon
-Proper soldering tools (I recommend Pinecil, SMD291 flux, Kester solder, etc)
-(Optional) CA/Super glue
-(Optional) Kapton/Polyimide tape
-(Optional) CR2032 Coin cell battery
-(Optional) 1.0mm-1.5mm Thermal pad
-Basic modding/soldering/troubleshooting knowledge
If you haven't gone through Wesk's Ultraslim Thread and Tito's video, it is critical to catch up on those to know how this trim works. In this case, I recommend checking Tito's ElectronAnalog video, since he shows how to wire it on an Ultraslim. Once youre caught up, the rest is simple. I didn't take many pics during the build process, so I'll attempt to explain. Start by following the steps shown in the video. You should end up with a trimmed board with the regulator jumper and power button wired up. Once you are ready, begin by configuring the HW-398. If yours comes with any resistor but the one marked 9v bridged, disconnect that and bridge the one marked 9VOnce configured to the 9V setting, I recommend probing the output to make sure you are getting 9v (while wired to a proper 9V capable PD power adapter, of course). Once ready, set aside the PD board, and remove the DC power input barrel jack on the PS2 board. I recommend using a hot air gun in this step. Once removed, cut two ~2-3" (cut more than you need, not less) 22 AWG wires. These will connect the output of the PD board to the input of where the barrel connector once was. Simply connect the corresponding terminals (Positive to Positive, Negative to Negative). The central hole is positive, it's seperated by the ground polygon around it. The other 2 holes are ground, simply choose one to wire to.
You should now have a PS2 with USB-C input! You can test boot in this step by connecting it to a USB PD charger and turning it on (via the repurposed lid switch).
Now, reattach the heatsink and fan onto the top of the board (don't forget the thermal pad and fan wire). Only screw in the fan, but not the heatsink/shielding. Before doing anything with the top piece, salvage the PS2 logo and retainer bracket from your stock shell. There should be a metal bracket behind the logo in the top piece above the disc drive. There should be 2 plastic bits holding it down, simply bend them back to release the retainer and logo piece.
Once removed, trim the retainer bracket to 20mm or less as shown above. Insert the PS2 logo piece into the whole on the front of the top case (oriented horizontally). Once it's pushed in all the way, insert the metal retainer into the slot on the inside of the case, behind the hole. Make sure it is fully inserted! Once in, you can add a small dap of CA/Super glue onto it to secure it in place. You should now be left with a swivling PS2 logo (for free)!
Now it gets difficult. To wire the ElectronAnalog board, you will need 5, 30 AWG wires and 2, 26 AWG wires running from the board to the pads near the AV port. Again, I strongly recommend that you watch Tito's video on this to get a visual. In short, begin by shorting the Analog/SPDIF jumper on the back of the ElectronAnalog board. You can definitely use SPDIF, but I've heard that some games don't support it. Then, screw the ElectronAnalog into it's screw holes on the top shell. DON'T FORGET TO ADD THE POWER BUTTON AT THIS STAGE, DON'T BE LIKE ME!
Now, run the 7 wires required from the PS2's component output (and 5v/GND) to the holes next to their corresponding markings on the silkscreen. What I did - was to get the whole roll of 30 AWG wire, expose and tin the end, and solder it to a pad on the PS2. Then, I'd run it right and under the console to where the ElectronAnalog was mounted. And then from there get a rough estimate for the length. Always give extra slack (an inch or two) to make the assembly easier (and reduce mechanical strain on the joints). After getting a sense for the appropriate length, cut the end from the roll and solder that end to the ElectronAnalog. Now just rinse and repeat 6 more times. REMEMBER: USE 30 AWG FOR THE COMPONENT AND AUDIO CONNECTIONS, AND 26 AWG FOR 5V AND GND TO THE ELECTRONANALOG. Even though it "only" consumes 300ma at 5v, I would recommend to use the thicker wire to reduce voltage drop (and for piece of mind lol).
Eventually (Hopefully) you'll end up with a fully USB-C and HDMI capable PS2! Albeit, quite bare at this point. The last major soldering hurlde is with the SD adapter module. As you should know, the Ultraslim uses an SD card for storing games (MX4SIO). This is much faster than USB loading. And once again, this is discussed in the main thread aswell as Titos video. In this case, the module actually makes it simpler to solder! You have proper holes to solder to, and the data connections are clearly written on the silkscreen. The only difference comes with the slider switch wiring, which we'll get to. Before you begin, start by removing all the passives on the module.
This can be done easily with your iron and some solder. Just add a good amount of solder onto your tip and "smear" off the components. Make sure to clean up and remove any shorts that may have happened during this process. Once you have prepped the module, solder the data wires from Memory Card Slot 2 to the module. Follow Tito's main video for a good visual aid. Wesk also made a great post with good resources. You'll notice that there isn't an ACK pad on the module. In our case, we will wire the switch in a different manner. @icd2k3 shows the wiring pretty well
We are basically just shorting between the ACK and GND on the motherboard with the switch. No resistor needed! At this stage, your PS2 should look a bit like mine: (Minus the screws, make sure the screw posts are empty. this was just for testing)
The good news is that, Thats it! You have soldered the regulator, power switch, ElectronAnalog, SD module, and the slide switch. Now the last part is to close it back up. You should have the ElectronAnalog mounted at this stage. Make sure everything is working at this stage and that the SD card is recognized. There are good sources on how to setup the software side, of which there are several guides online. Now, this is the stage where you have the freedom to go about assembly in whatever way you want (and I recommend doing what's best in your case), but I'll just explain what I did - as a guide. Start by making sure the board fits well, and the memory card ports have slid into the case. If you haven't already, attach the USB-C board onto the mount. I personally used a little bit of CA glue to make sure it doesn't come off, this is a bit unorthodox, but guarantees that it'll stay anchored. After its mounted correctly, screw in the USB-C board mounting piece. Once it's secure, lower the board again and make sure it rests flush against the screw posts. Once the PS2, ElectronAnalog, and USB-PD are securely in place (Again, don't forget the Power button like I did!), Now it's time to attach the SD card module and slider switch. Begin by adding another small dab of CA glue onto the SD adapter mount, and firmly attach the module onto it. Once attached, attach the SD card mounting piece. Note: I designed it to be able to friction fit and stay secured with the console's mounting pressure alone. If that doesn't work in your case, use thin and flat screws to screw onto the posts. I recommened adding kapton to insulate the screws from possibly shorting something on the board (I doubt they touch the board or any SMD components, but I like to be sure). Once the SD module is attached securely, insert the slider switch into the whole to the right of the SD card slot. Even though this should be friction fit, I added some CA to keep it attached well. Once everything is fully attached where it should be, slide the bottom shell into the top shell. The method that works for me is to go at an angle towards the front controller ports, and then pulling it inward a bit. Press down on both sides and make sure nothing is buldging or blocking a good seal. Once confirmed, use the 4 large screws from the stock PS2 slim case and screw both halfs together. And there you have it...
I'll be attaching the STEP files (if applicable) and STLs of the current version. This wouldn't have been possible without the people credited, and shows the importance of OSHW. Please know that this is very much not a perfect model, and I myself am very new to CAD software. There are likely issues with it. Specifically with the SD covers. I included both the original and a slim version that I made. Only the slim version didn't buldge out on mine, but it's harder to print (got lazy) and you'll need shorter screws. Lmk which one works out better! My final request is that, if possible, you launch a CAD program and change whatever you see fit. Even if it's just tinkering!
P.S: This was written at 4 A.M. There are most definitely errors in here. Please let me know what can be changed or fixed. I gotta go sleep, bye y'all.
Credits:
@Wesk - Genius of our time, designer of the Ultraslim
@jerikson - Designing the original stock logo retainer mount
@Androxilogin - Designing the SD card mount
@TheFizz - Designing the PD board mount
@icd2k3 - Pictures and MX4SIO wiring guide
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