- Joined
- Mar 14, 2018
- Messages
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- 14
I decided to try my hand with an ashida as I was tired of working on my 13 year n64 portable. I was able to 3d print my own case using an ender 3 pro. With wesks stl files. The case turned out great printing at around a 45 or 60 degree angle.
The first thing I did was wet sand and the spray with a matte clear coat as I really didn’t want a glossy look. The bottom edge of the bottom half of the case didn’t really print that well but I didn’t want to reprint the bottom or pay someone to do it for me. I also really don’t mind how it is so it looks kinda funny.
I then ordered the ashida pcbs, pms lite and usb-pd from the 4layertech store. Ordered the other components as listed in the BOM. Got everything wired that was possible so I could then trim my wii and test it.
Before trimming, I made sure to install rvloader and patch out Bluetooth and enable vga as I will use vga instead of composite. Everything was successful so I opened hit up and cut it with a Dremel. After trimming and sanding, I measured my resistances and got, what I thought, was continuity between the 3.3v, 1.15v and GND. After asking the discord channel for help, Jeff mentioned that low resistance will sometimes trigger the continuity feature of the DMM(beep in my case). After waiting a whole night and checking in the morning I saw I was getting around 50 ohm which should be okay. I was also getting the correct resistances at the other points as well. I guess I’m just bad at using a DMM .
I wired the data lines up, wired the u10, wired the voltage lines, the i2c lines, I wired 3.3v to pin 8 of the video port, R/G/B from the silver capacitors and H/V from the ave. After doing this and verifying once again that nothing was shorted, I turn the wii on……….. nothing exciting happened. The screen turned on (yah me) waited like 5-10 secs screen went black. (Boo me). I checked the cpu/gpu of the wii and they were getting warm. Not burn your finger hot but warm. After reading Gingerz exhaustive wii trimming and troubleshooting FAQ and as many work logs and questions as possible. I can not figure why it won’t boot. I assume it won’t boot as the screen doesn’t seem to respond to the wii. The only thing that I have not tested is wiring up the GC+ data line to the wii. Not sure if that is a requirement to boot but I don’t think so.At this point I’m just hopeful it works magically.
The first thing I did was wet sand and the spray with a matte clear coat as I really didn’t want a glossy look. The bottom edge of the bottom half of the case didn’t really print that well but I didn’t want to reprint the bottom or pay someone to do it for me. I also really don’t mind how it is so it looks kinda funny.
I then ordered the ashida pcbs, pms lite and usb-pd from the 4layertech store. Ordered the other components as listed in the BOM. Got everything wired that was possible so I could then trim my wii and test it.
Before trimming, I made sure to install rvloader and patch out Bluetooth and enable vga as I will use vga instead of composite. Everything was successful so I opened hit up and cut it with a Dremel. After trimming and sanding, I measured my resistances and got, what I thought, was continuity between the 3.3v, 1.15v and GND. After asking the discord channel for help, Jeff mentioned that low resistance will sometimes trigger the continuity feature of the DMM(beep in my case). After waiting a whole night and checking in the morning I saw I was getting around 50 ohm which should be okay. I was also getting the correct resistances at the other points as well. I guess I’m just bad at using a DMM .
I wired the data lines up, wired the u10, wired the voltage lines, the i2c lines, I wired 3.3v to pin 8 of the video port, R/G/B from the silver capacitors and H/V from the ave. After doing this and verifying once again that nothing was shorted, I turn the wii on……….. nothing exciting happened. The screen turned on (yah me) waited like 5-10 secs screen went black. (Boo me). I checked the cpu/gpu of the wii and they were getting warm. Not burn your finger hot but warm. After reading Gingerz exhaustive wii trimming and troubleshooting FAQ and as many work logs and questions as possible. I can not figure why it won’t boot. I assume it won’t boot as the screen doesn’t seem to respond to the wii. The only thing that I have not tested is wiring up the GC+ data line to the wii. Not sure if that is a requirement to boot but I don’t think so.At this point I’m just hopeful it works magically.
