Worklog Raspberry Pi Fusion.

[DeoNaught]

You should try this https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.p...olor-prints-adding-designs-to-your-case.2813/

and use red for the Raspberry pi Logo :3

 

[TodorSauce]

You should try this https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.p...olor-prints-adding-designs-to-your-case.2813/

and use red for the Raspberry pi Logo :3

Maybe for Rev 2 if there is one. Looks like a cool process, if a little fiddly. Something to mess with after I'm done with this project I guess.

I've been busy the last couple of days. Got the finalized (or so I thought) models of my case all printed to my satisfaction and ready to assemble. Did some sanding on the sides of the case as suggested earlier in the thread and got some results out of this method that I'm pretty happy with.

I ran into a few bumps in the road during assembly, but nothing I couldn't work around. Inserting the L1/R1 shoulder buttons proved to be a pain, so I had to redesign the retainers in the bottom case portion to be more friendly to assembly and also allow removal if needed later on. Also the battery retainer walls on the sides of the case had to be modified a bit to allow the same shoulder buttons to be inserted. Other than that things went mostly without a hitch and I was able to use the original prints without having to reprint with the new designs.

I am having some trouble with my right analog stick, I think it may have to do with the old 3DS to Analog boards I'm using that I bought from RDC back in the day. I had some trouble with them way back, so maybe this is the same issue popping back up. I'll get it worked out eventually, the only emulator that really uses the right stick is the N64 emu and I can remap stuff till I get it sorted. What I'm left with is a 98% working unit that I'm really happy to finally be able to play for the moment.

I'll shut up now and get on with some pics of assembly.

Spoiler: Assembly Pics!

I had originally planned to use squishy tacts for the dpad and buttons, but I like the feel of the OG membrane assembly better. So I improved some cut up gamecube dpad boards I had laying about in where the dpad and buttons go in the case last minute.

You can see some of the trickery here that I used to buy some space for the analog sticks to fit in above the batterys. Where the retainers are not the analog sticks sit directly on top of the 18650 cells for support. Also, controller and 3DS2Analog boards mostly wired up here.

Shot of the front of the case mostly assembled.

Back of the case pretty empty. You can see here where I had to cut the battery wells to insert the L1/R1 shoulder buttons.

Power board and batteries wired in. I tried like hell not to use very much hot glue or epoxy. But I did have to use a minimal amount of both in certain spots for cable management. This is definitely the cleanest portable I've ever built though.

Just a shot of my Pi board showing where I wired my audio to. Fan runs on 3.3v coming from the GPIO. Runs pretty quiet and seems to keep things nice and cool.

Wiring more things together. Through all of the design process one thing I forgot to include is a mounting place for the audio amp, so its just sitting in there right now. I need to draw up some kind of retainer to keep it in place and isolated from everything else down there.

Just a shot of the back of the case.

Boom!

Squee!

Finished thread and some kind of video coming soon once I work out the last few bugs. ^_^

Edit: Oi! Also, thinking about a name change to RetroPi Fusion... I think I like that one better. Thoughts?

 

[Koboid]

Metroid Fusion... You got my respect.
And yes, RetroPi Fusion sounds dope.

 

[TodorSauce]

View attachment 9616

Metroid Fusion... You got my respect.
And yes, RetroPi Fusion sounds dope.

if you like Fusion you need to play AM2R on pc or android. If you don't know what that is google is your friend.

 

[Dmcke5]

Nice work!

I've got a question about your HDMI solution.
I've also built myself a Pi Handheld (will start my own thread shortly to show it off) but I'm currently running analog video due to strict size constraints. I'm considering now attempting to upgrade to HDMI as I'm really not happy with the loss of clarity due to the analog video. I see you've hand wired a HDMI connection on your screen? Any tips on how to achieve the same thing? I've found very limited information in my googling about how HDMI plugs are wired. Is it just pin 1 to pin 1, pin 2 to pin 2 etc? I'm guessing you just back probed the connector to find where it connects on the board before removing it?

 

[TodorSauce]

Nice work!

I've got a question about your HDMI solution.
I've also built myself a Pi Handheld (will start my own thread shortly to show it off) but I'm currently running analog video due to strict size constraints. I'm considering now attempting to upgrade to HDMI as I'm really not happy with the loss of clarity due to the analog video. I see you've hand wired a HDMI connection on your screen? Any tips on how to achieve the same thing? I've found very limited information in my googling about how HDMI plugs are wired. Is it just pin 1 to pin 1, pin 2 to pin 2 etc? I'm guessing you just back probed the connector to find where it connects on the board before removing it?

Yea man, I did basically what you said above. Probed with a meter and reconnected as I went along. I got it working first time amazingly, it was the first HDMI port I ever re-wired like that. I expected something to go wrong but it works nicely.

With the driver boards for these screens so cheaply available, its really not a huge deal if you mess up one or two along the way.

 

[Shank]

Nice work!
Any tips on how to achieve the same thing?

Instead of hand wiring it, why not just replace the HDMI port on each board with a 19 pin FFC connector of the same pitch?

 

[Dmcke5]

Instead of hand wiring it, why not just replace the HDMI port on each board with a 19 pin FFC connector of the same pitch?

Yeah I considered that. Trouble is I've got a pi zero on one end with a mini HDMI connector. I may be able to squeeze a break out in there, just wanted to know if the wiring is straight through which it sounds like it is.