Worklog Wii in Gamecube

porc

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I am working on a 6 layer trim based on Nold's Miicro. I finished the trim, tested the resistances and everything seems good to go, but when I have 5V connected to AV it won't turn on. When the 5V is disconnected (white wire shown below) it turns on, evidenced by the CPU heating up. I have tried connecting 5V both to the C110 pad as shown in the picture as well as to the AV pins directly. When the 5V is disconnected, all voltages look good; when it's connected, voltages are 0. I have tested and re-tested all the voltage lines, verified that they're connected to the right pins, and double checked the u10 relocation (which has caused me a lot of problems already) and everything seems to be right. How do I troubleshoot this? Why would connecting 5V cause the wii not to boot?
 

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CrazyGadget

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A couple of questions / comments:
  • What do you mean by 5V wired to AV? The only place where you should be applying 5V in the Noldendo Miicro is to the USB ports and the to Gamecube Controller ports. If you're actually wiring 5V to your AV line... that would be bad.
  • You should not have 1v8 connected between the Wii and the PSU+ if you are keeping the LDO on the Wii (which you are). Either disconnect that line, or remove the LDO.
  • Those are some very long wires. The length of your wires is critical for boot / proper function. They should be as short as possible (think about how the PSU is mounted in the Noldendo and how short the wires are!)
  • Your solder joints overall look very cold, like your iron isn't hot enough / you're not using a fat enough tip / you're not using enough flux. I would recommend reflowing all of them with a 650-700°F iron with a chisel tip and lots of flux.
  • Is that USB-C PD board configured to spit out 12V? Does the power supply you're using have a 12V (2A or more) profile? If not, it could be as simple as you're not giving the PSU enough juice.
  • Warm CPU / GPU ≠ booting Wii. That just means that you are giving it power. The only way to know that it is booting is by seeing the RVLoader error message (or just RVLoader main screen if you have a USB in / wired correctly) after giving it power.
  • I saw you posted your resistances between your voltage lines on the Wii in the discord server, but can you also post them here, just to have it documented? That's with the Wii completely isolated (not wired to the PSU or any peripherals).
It looks like you've already made another thread about this issue, I would advise you stick to one thread; making a bunch only clogs up the forums and makes helping you harder.
 
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porc

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Here are the resistances:
1703129228411.png


Thanks for all the helpful info, I will make those changes. What is needed in order to use the wii2hdmi? Unfortunately I no longer have the original composite cables (or a tv that with composite inputs) so it's the only way for me to test at the moment
 

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Also per your last response I just converted this thread to a worklog and will continue to post here
 

Stitches

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You still need to connect the two 1.8v locations on the Wii, yeah.

For the Wii2HDMI to work properly I believe you need to have the Wii's video output set to Component 480p. Wii2HDMI adapters are not compatible with the VGA patch, so if you installed it you'll need to use the unplug-replug method to get display and re-run the installer to remove the VGA patch.
 

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You mean when installing RV loader? I intentionally did not enable VGA because I knew I would not need it. I confirmed I was getting output with the wii2hdmi after the U10 relocation before trimming. I connected pins 8 and 10 (mode and 3.3V) directly on the AV pins as well
 

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Alright, I shortened the wires, removed the 1.8v, and reflowed the solder joints. The wires are all messy and tangled but I will re do all of them once I know I can boot. No update from before. I just ordered a wii AV cable from amazon and found an old RCA usb capture card I had lying around, so I'll be able to test with composite soon to see whether it's actually booting.
I re-read the noldendo thread and I am fairly confident that the 5V needs to be wired to pin 4 on the AV pinout in order for wii2hdmi to work. Can someone confirm?
 

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porc

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Another observation: when I have the 5V line connected to pin 4 on AV and the wii2hdmi is unplugged (nothing plugged into the video out), I get power (cpu heats up, good voltages). When the wii2hdmi is plugged in when I power on, I don't get power. When I plug in the wii with no wii2hdmi, and then plug in the wii2hdmi, power stays on, but still no signal
 

Stitches

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You mean when installing RV loader? I intentionally did not enable VGA because I knew I would not need it. I confirmed I was getting output with the wii2hdmi after the U10 relocation before trimming. I connected pins 8 and 10 (mode and 3.3V) directly on the AV pins as well
You should be good then, the adapter should just work if the trim works.
Alright, I shortened the wires, removed the 1.8v, and reflowed the solder joints. The wires are all messy and tangled but I will re do all of them once I know I can boot. No update from before. I just ordered a wii AV cable from amazon and found an old RCA usb capture card I had lying around, so I'll be able to test with composite soon to see whether it's actually booting.
I re-read the noldendo thread and I am fairly confident that the 5V needs to be wired to pin 4 on the AV pinout in order for wii2hdmi to work. Can someone confirm?
Yeah most adapters need 5v to run, so running a 5v wire to pin 4 is probably needed.

It looks like you're using solid core wire. We recommend not using solid core for voltage supply, 22AWG stranded wire should be used for that.
 

porc

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Just tested with composite video (after disconnecting mode from 3v3), still getting no signal...
Could solid core wire be the culprit? doesn't seem likely to me, especially since the voltages look good when the Wii is powered on, but I will re-wire it later today to double check. If that doesn't fix it, does it mean my board is shot?
 
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CrazyGadget

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It's hard to say whether it's borked or not without having all of the little / obvious things attacked first. Switching to stranded 22awg would take out one possible factor. I also noticed that there are a couple components on the edge of the board (on both sides), those could also be an issue. I would also remove 5v and 12v from the Wii for now, just to stick to the bare bones for booting.
 

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Welp. I redid the voltage lines (no 5V or 12V) with stranded 22AWG and removed any components I could find from the edges. All the voltages and resistances still look good, double checked the U10 and it's getting and sending 3.3V, but still no composite signal. Anything else you see that could be an issue?
 

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Stitches

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Nothing jumps out at me, aside from the weird and unnecessary internal right angle that you did under the RAM. You may have severed something internal. Any reason you went with that rather than the standard trim outline?
 

porc

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Yeah, I originally was going to do the normal trim, but when I was cutting the board the Dremel slipped and nicked the board in a few places in that area, so I just trimmed a little further in. First timer problems.
 

porc

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Oof indeed. Just ordered another 6-layer from eBay for $23, you'll be hearing from me again in a week or so
 
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