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Ashida Wii Portable

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Thanks for the quick reply. So I should go for the MF35100V2-1000U-S99 rather than the noctua fan? If so, what's the difference between them?
do you use the newer Revision of the Ashida backshell?
Because the Noctua Fan only fits in the newer revision of the backshell
 
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do you use the newer Revision of the Ashida backshell?
Because the Noctua Fan only fits in the newer revision of the backshell
Haven't gotten one printed yet, that's why I want to know which one is best. Really just wanna make sure I do everything in the best possible way.
 

Stitches

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The main difference between the two is the Noctua fan is *slightly* quieter at the same speeds. I believe the cooling performance difference is negligible
 
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Anyone know if this is an OEM controller and if it will work for an Ashida?
IMG_1890.jpeg
 

Stitches

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The Nintendo Smash controllers are OEM, yeah. You don't have to sacrifice it to make an Ashida though. You can buy replacement buttons, rubber domes, pots, and sticks instead. Can be more cost effective depending on where you live.
 
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I'm printing the case of the Ashida on my own FDM 3D printer, as it prints in pretty decent quality. When I was copying over the necessary settings from the 3MF though, I neglected one important setting: the "Thick bridges" tick. Now this one bridge has a really bad dip, and I'm not sure what to do. Is it salvageable, or do I need to reprint it?

Thanks-
James
 

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Also- I used tree supports because they are easier to remove and use less filament, but they didn't support that area. I checked normal supports, and it does support that area. Is the issue the tree supports or the thick bridges setting?
 

Stitches

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Potentially both, could also be the "don't support bridges" setting defaulting to on with tree supports. If it isn't that, you can use support painting or a support enforcer object in the slicer to force supports to generate there on future prints.

The print might be salvagable, but it'll be a lot of chopping and sanding to get the LCD to fit properly
 
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Potentially both, could also be the "don't support bridges" setting defaulting to on with tree supports. If it isn't that, you can use support painting or a support enforcer object in the slicer to force supports to generate there on future prints.

The print might be salvagable, but it'll be a lot of chopping and sanding to get the LCD to fit properly
Thanks for your quick response! Interestingly enough, the settings in the 3MF file Wesk included had "don't support bridges" enabled, yet in normal mode, that overhang is supported. When I went into supports painting mode, I noticed that the bridge was not detected as an overhang, so that may be the reason the tree supports weren't generated there. I'll wait for the LCD to arrive, and once it does, I'll see how much of it would need to be sanded, and go from there.
 
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hello I have a problem with the controllers the right part where there is the GC+ integrated, and the C stick works very well even the A,B button.. on the other hand the left part where there is the left stick connected with a tablecloth does not work at all can you help me? (the first photos are the part of the controller that does not work)
Hey there, where did you buy those split GameCube controller PCBs I need one for a project I’m working on
 
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Hey there, where did you buy those split GameCube controller PCBs I need one for a project I’m working on
 
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