Model [Guide / Release] Noldendo Wii Miicro

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Can someone link me to a power supply they use for this build ?(: i am still a bit new and there were so many options for this i wasn’t sure what’s correct. i am currently ordering parts i have modded my wii and have rvloader going, i am going to do the u10 relocation here soon i ordered a cool translucent blue case and i’m pumped for it to arrive. i just don’t want to burn up the boards with the wrong voltages i also would appreciate any build logs !
I'm also preparing to make a Noldendo. I was planning to use a 12V 2A power supply with a 5.5x2.1mm barrel plug like the one I bought here:


It sounds like people are using 12V adapters and it's going fine, and Nold is using a 12V adapter in his video, so it should work fine if you use a 12V adapter. After reading the PTH08080WAH datasheet, I'm not sure if that's the recommended voltage, but that's what people are using and it sounds like it works. Definitely don't go higher than 12V.
 
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I'm also preparing to make a Noldendo. I was planning to use a 12V 2A power supply with a 5.5x2.1mm barrel plug like the one I bought here:


It sounds like people are using 12V adapters and it's going fine, and Nold is using a 12V adapter in his video, so it should work fine if you use a 12V adapter. After reading the PTH08080WAH datasheet, I'm not sure if that's the recommended voltage, but that's what people are using and it sounds like it works. Definitely don't go higher than 12V.
would something like this work okay ? i have it in my cart already https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GPXNJPI/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?smid=A38ZT5SX6TTZ4E&psc=1
 

Stitches

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Yeah that should be fine, however I recommend using a 9V 2A supply to reduce thermal strain on the regulators
i thought 12v was needed for the sensor bar and audio ? i’m sorry i’m not good with understanding the draws vs heat and stuff please elaborate if you can
 

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i thought 12v was needed for the sensor bar and audio ? i’m sorry i’m not good with understanding the draws vs heat and stuff please elaborate if you can
The greater the difference between input voltage and output voltage, the hotter a regulator gets. Usually a difference of up to 10v is fine, but the 1v reg is slightly outside that range and could in theory wear out faster than the other regulators and fail. It's unlikely, but it has happened. AFAIK the pre-amp on the Wii will run off 9v, it just won't be quite as loud. Sensor bars are a good point tho. I'm not sure if a normal 12v sensor bar will shine bright enough on 9v, but there are battery powered portable Wii sensor bars that would mitigate that insufficiency.

It's up to you whether you want to take the small risk or not. Most people don't worry about it because failures are quite rare
 
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The greater the difference between input voltage and output voltage, the hotter a regulator gets. Usually a difference of up to 10v is fine, but the 1v reg is slightly outside that range and could in theory wear out faster than the other regulators and fail. It's unlikely, but it has happened. AFAIK the pre-amp on the Wii will run off 9v, it just won't be quite as loud. Sensor bars are a good point tho. I'm not sure if a normal 12v sensor bar will shine bright enough on 9v, but there are battery powered portable Wii sensor bars that would mitigate that insufficiency.

It's up to you whether you want to take the small risk or not. Most people don't worry about it because failures are quite rare
There are (knockoff) sensor bars that run off USB, such as this one:

I have one plugged into my TV's USB port so it's on whenever my TV is on.
 

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The greater the difference between input voltage and output voltage, the hotter a regulator gets. Usually a difference of up to 10v is fine, but the 1v reg is slightly outside that range and could in theory wear out faster than the other regulators and fail. It's unlikely, but it has happened. AFAIK the pre-amp on the Wii will run off 9v, it just won't be quite as loud. Sensor bars are a good point tho. I'm not sure if a normal 12v sensor bar will shine bright enough on 9v, but there are battery powered portable Wii sensor bars that would mitigate that insufficiency.

It's up to you whether you want to take the small risk or not. Most people don't worry about it because failures are quite rare
that’s actually very good to know actually, so more or less run the aftermarket sensor bar or take the risk with some regs going out early? i was going to use the psu plus i recently got from crazy gadget do you think i’m safe with that? i believe it’s setup to run 12v but i’m also asking because i really want to be safe with it
 

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that’s actually very good to know actually, so more or less run the aftermarket sensor bar or take the risk with some regs going out early? i was going to use the psu plus i recently got from crazy gadget do you think i’m safe with that? i believe it’s setup to run 12v but i’m also asking because i really want to be safe with it
According to the datasheet for the regs used in the PSU-Plus, 12v input is safe to use thanks to the regs having an inbuilt thermal safety. If the regulators get too hot, they will slowly ramp the output current down, shutting off completely if the sensor hits 160 degrees celsius. Getting that hot is quite unlikely, so yeah it looks like with these regs it's safe to just use 12v.

What I don't know is whether the thermal buildup of an enclosed case will cause a 6 layer console to turn off during use due to the thermal ramp down lowering the output current for the 1.15v line below the minimum requirements. The Noldendo Wii Micro has decent airflow going past the regulators, so that shouldn't be an issue here, but it might be a problem in other cases where no air flows over the regulators.
 
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According to the datasheet for the regs used in the PSU-Plus, 12v input is safe to use thanks to the regs having an inbuilt thermal safety. If the regulators get too hot, they will slowly ramp the output current down, shutting off completely if the sensor hits 160 degrees celsius. Getting that hot is quite unlikely, so yeah it looks like with these regs it's safe to just use 12v.

What I don't know is whether the thermal buildup of an enclosed case will cause a 6 layer console to turn off during use due to the thermal ramp down lowering the output current for the 1.15v line below the minimum requirements. The Noldendo Wii Micro has decent airflow going past the regulators, so that shouldn't be an issue here, but it might be a problem in other cases where no air flows over the regulators.
thank you so much for the info and being patient with my newb questions i just want to get it right the first time! i was deff going to use fresh thermal pads/compound i know the 6 layer gets quite a bit hotter than the 4 layers i’m used to
 

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Fortunately the heatsink & fan combo Nintendo used in the Wii lineup is pretty overkill. Any build that uses both and has enough intake holes is pretty damn thermally safe. If anything, the Noldendo Wii Micro may have better thermals due to having a way larger intake grille and an almost perfectly direct air path
 
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Hey all, I find this project super interesting and I want to make it.

I don't have any experience soldering but I know that I can practice and pick these skills before making this.

The thing I'm unsure about is the RVL-PSU. Can it be bought online? I live in the UK, I know that CrazyGadget sells (or used to sell) them but I'm not sure if they can be delivered to the UK. Is there a shop that you can buy these from? Can they be bought and manufactured by PCBWAY? If so what is the cost, I looked at the PCBWAY website but it all seems confusing to me.

Any help or guidance is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

Viilmo

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Hey all, I find this project super interesting and I want to make it.

I don't have any experience soldering but I know that I can practice and pick these skills before making this.

The thing I'm unsure about is the RVL-PSU. Can it be bought online? I live in the UK, I know that CrazyGadget sells (or used to sell) them but I'm not sure if they can be delivered to the UK. Is there a shop that you can buy these from? Can they be bought and manufactured by PCBWAY? If so what is the cost, I looked at the PCBWAY website but it all seems confusing to me.

Any help or guidance is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
@CrazyGadget does ship internationally, but expect shipping to be a little more expensive (had to pay $17 shipping and 10€ toll)
 
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@CrazyGadget does ship internationally, but expect shipping to be a little more expensive (had to pay $17 shipping and 10€ toll)
Hmm so $67 for the PSU? Seems out of my budget unfortunately.

Why do people recommend using RVL-PSU instead of PTH. What are the advantages of RVL-PSU
 

Y2K

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Hmm so $67 for the PSU? Seems out of my budget unfortunately.

Why do people recommend using RVL-PSU instead of PTH. What are the advantages of RVL-PSU
RVL-PSU is an all in one Wii voltage regulator board, meaning you don't have to spend time and effort wiring up and testing your PTH regs. It's also way more space efficient. For a Noldendo, PTHs are more than sufficient, but RVL-PSU is quite a bit easier to work with!
 
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RVL-PSU is an all in one Wii voltage regulator board, meaning you don't have to spend time and effort wiring up and testing your PTH regs. It's also way more space efficient. For a Noldendo, PTHs are more than sufficient, but RVL-PSU is quite a bit easier to work with!
Ah I see, unfortunately it costs too much for me so I'll maybe come back to attempt this in the future. Thanks for the quick replies
 
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Hi folks, today i'm happy to finally present to you my Wii Micro aka "Miicro" Project!

View attachment 13761


About this project
The goal of this project was to use as less additional components as possible and make most of them 3d printable. Also it recycles a lot of the Wii's mainboard and used the stock heatsink/fan. Since I had a lot of 12V PSU's lying around, I choose to use 12V and not 5V micro-USB/-C for power. It's thought as a "simple" "weekend" project which utilizes a 6-layer Wii.

Even though it's relatively easy compared to a portable Wii, this build still requires quite some skill, reading of all the [trimming] guides and a basic understanding of how to trim and rewire components.

When finished the Wii mainboard will sit upside down inside of the case. It happend by excident but the cool thing about this is, that we don't need any visible air vents on the case. Only on the back & bottom.

I made a small video to give a an overview:

View attachment 13762


Documentations / Links
These guides are essential for this project, make sure to read and understand them before even thinking about starting this project:

Make sure you are using a 6-layer Wii -> https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/revision-identification-guide.863/
Trimming Manual [4 layer!]: https://manual.bitbuilt.net/guide/wii-basic-trimming-guide
Trimming Guide: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/the-definitive-wii-trimming-guide.198/
6-Layer Trimming Guide: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.p...ive-wii-trimming-guide-6-layer-expansion.860/
Custom Regulators Guide: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/custom-regulators-an-explanation-and-guide.754/
BBLoader: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/bbloader-v1-1-beta.3564/

Also see the Wii Micro builds by @Gman and @jefflongo:

3D Model Download: release_v1 [Thingiverse Mirror]


Pre-requirements
- Power Regulators [PTH, RVL-PSU, ...]
- SPST/SPDT/DPDT/...-Switch [6mm outside]
- Barreljack [8mm outside]
- 9V to 12V DC Powersupply [matching barreljack]
- USB Flashdrive [For BBLoader]
- 6-Layer Wii, softmodded with BBLoader & no-wifi patch enabled
- 2 simple tact buttons, 1-5mm height recommended

- Magnetwire ~38 AWG
- Thicker / stranded wire
- Flux [optional but recommended]
- Solder

Tools
- [good] Soldering Iron
- Dremel
- Sanding Paper [at least up to 800 grid]



Printed Parts
View attachment 13749

Top Case
Main part / top half of the wii micro case, will hold most components.

Bottom Case
The Bottom part of the case will hold the Gamecube controller ports. Also it contains the intake air vent for cooling the wii.

Standing feet
The standing feets are **essential** for the cooling to work, since the air intake is on the bottom part. Without them your Wii will overheat!

Button Bracket
Will hold two tact buttons for reset & wiimote sync

View attachment 13747

Buttons
When you are using short tact buttons [eg. 1mm], you can simply print the supplied buttons.

View attachment 13751

PSU Holder
When using the PTH08080 regulators you can print a simple holder for them, that's easily mountable to the screwholes of the GC memorycard slot using two tiny [black] screws.
There will be a RVL-PSU version soon [TM].

View attachment 13748


Trimming
I developed a special trim for this project, that has some benefits over the normal OM6 trim:
- AV-Port & USB Port are not trimmed off
- All four screwholes of the Wii's heatsink are kept
- RA1 [pull-up resistor array for the Gamecube controllers] is being kept

View attachment 13753

We will recycle a few parts from the Wii mainboard for this project:
- Main part [GPU/CPU & stuff]
- GC Ports
- MX-Chip [optional but recommended]
- Battery socket [optional, requires MX-Chip relocation]

The MX-Chip are can be trimmed a little bit smaller as on the 4-layer Wiis.

View attachment 13758

On the Battery socket we only need to make sure there is no short between ground and the battery positive voltage.

When trimming the parts from the mainboard, start with the Gamecube controller ports. Then the main part and in the end the MX & battery holder [if you want to rewire them]. As always trim outside of the marked area and sand/file it into shape afterwords. Make sure to not trim smaller then the official OM6 trim!



Reused parts
We will reuse a few parts from the Wii like:
- Cooling Fan
- Heatsink

Screws
You will need a few screws from your Wii's case:
- 4 short silver screws for the stand feet
- 4 short silver screws to close the case
- 2 short silver screws for the fan
- 2 long silver & 1 short silver screw for the Gamecube controller Ports
- 4 long black screws for the heatsink

Also if you are going to use one of the custom printed regulator holders, you will need:
- 2 tiny black screws from the black gamecube controller port cover

View attachment 13750


Rewiring Voltages
There are a few voltages we need to rewire, most of them are covered in the 6-layer trimming guide.
- 12V Sensorbar
- 12V Audio amp [see trimming guide]
- 5V USB
- 5V to AV-Port [eg. required for wii2hdmi adapters]
- 1.8V Bridge [see 6-layer trimming guide]
- And ofc 3v3, 1v15 and 1v

View attachment 13746


Relocations
Bluetooth
Twist magnet wire very tightly using an electric drill. You will need about 10cm of twisted magnetwire. When the relocation doesn't work for you, your wire might not be twisted enough. In that case you still can shorten the wires and put the bluetooth module somewhere closer to the vias. It should fit under the trimmed mainboard, as the screw holders are of 4mm height.

MX-Chip
I found out that without the MX-Chip, that the wavebird controller won't work statisfying, so this relocation is highly recommended. Use Magnetwire of about 6cm length for the four data lines. Stranded for voltage and ground. Same for the RTC battery.

View attachment 13752

Controller Ports
First cut off the black plastic pins on the bottom of the PCB. You might even want to sand them down, to make the PCB sit flat on the holder.

For the controller ports to work we need to wire up 3.3v to all jacks. I used stranded wire and made small jumper wires of about 4cm length to daisy chain the ports. Watch out that the wire don't get in the way of the screwholes.

Ground can be connected to any pad connected to ground. I simply used a thick stranded wire and soldered it to the middle of the PCB.
Use magnet wire for the data lines. The data wires should be about 20cm long.

Use two long silver screws to secure the PCB on the bottom part. In the middle of the PCB you can use a short silver screw.

Optional: If you want rumble support you will also need to wire up 5v to every port just like you did for 3.3v.

View attachment 13755

Here are some alternate relocation spots that i used, since they are further to the front & quite convenient:
View attachment 14093


Assembly
- Screw the feet to the bottom part using four small silver screws
- Put the tact buttons into the bracked, secure them by bending the legs to the side and screw it in place using two short silver screws before inserting the mainboard
- Test every relocation one by one.

The case has a few holders for the Bluetooth board, RTC battery and MX-Chip.
View attachment 13754

In the end it should look something like this:
View attachment 13756 View attachment 13757


Have fun
Feel free to contact me in the discord if you have any questions. Thanks to everybody who makes public modding stuff and is part of this great community!



Changelog:
30.8.2020: Added blank/no-logo main bodies & info about barreljack & switch size. Minor additions.
12.9.2020: Added Video
13.9.2020: Added alternate GCC relocation vias
Hello, i have a problem when I unsoldered for the u10 relocation I did it wrong and there are missing outputs do you have any solutions ?
 

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