Keep using the original power supply on a Wii micro

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Hi, I'm very new to this, but I got myself a memorex boomball in other words a gamesphere from Drake and Josh, and I want to put a wii inside, but I got a few things I would like to do, In this scenario keep the original power supply port since the brick fits inside and I was able to adapt it to use the Boomball's default cable.

Boomball.jpeg

I was thinking to follow the normal trim that keeps most of the back ports and just solder the last two cables from the custom regulators into the port pins but I'm not sure.
trim_OMG.png

Also I would like to keep the gamecube memory card ports if possible, could i take ones from a dead wii board and wire them up to the ones on the main board to place them somewhere else, and if so, can it be done with the gamecube controller ports? So they are not in a straight line but each one can be placed freely.

To be as specific as possible, take the ports form another console, separate them, and wire them to the trimmed board's own line of gamecube ports, or I can just separate the ones from the main board?

Thanks for your help.
 

Stitches

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You can do all of this, but you might run into long term reliability issues by using the 12v power supply with custom regulators. The Gamecube controller ports are all electrically isolated, so you can cut the plastic housing between the ports to separate them and mount them however. The memory card ports can be relocated or replaced with the Gamecube console individual ports, it's just a lot of desoldering and wiring to do.
 
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You can do all of this, but you might run into long term reliability issues by using the 12v power supply with custom regulators. The Gamecube controller ports are all electrically isolated, so you can cut the plastic housing between the ports to separate them and mount them however. The memory card ports can be relocated or replaced with the Gamecube console individual ports, it's just a lot of desoldering and wiring to do.
What kind of issues? And what alternatives do I have? I need to have two cables so solder to the polarized port , which then runs to a polarized figure 8 cable.
And should I just not cut the power port or cut it, de-solder the port itself and solder it to the two end wires from the custom regulators?
As for the memory card slots, I can just de-solder them from the board and extend them with wire then.
Also, thanks for your reply.
 

Stitches

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What kind of issues? And what alternatives do I have? I need to have two cables so solder to the polarized port , which then runs to a polarized figure 8 cable.
And should I just not cut the power port or cut it, de-solder the port itself and solder it to the two end wires from the custom regulators?
As for the memory card slots, I can just de-solder them from the board and extend them with wire then.
Also, thanks for your reply.
Most buck regulators are designed to safely handle a voltage difference between input and output of no more than 10v. Stepping 12v down to 1v and 1.15v is an 11v difference, which can cause the regulators to run hot and possibly become damaged over time. Usually we recommend using 5v or 9v as a supply voltage to mitigate this point of failure. 3A of either is sufficient to run a Wii at full capacity.

As for the port, you can leave it on the board if you want. It makes little functional difference besides retaining the 12v fuse, you'll have to ruin wires from the port to the regulator input pins regardless.
 
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Most buck regulators are designed to safely handle a voltage difference between input and output of no more than 10v. Stepping 12v down to 1v and 1.15v is an 11v difference, which can cause the regulators to run hot and possibly become damaged over time. Usually we recommend using 5v or 9v as a supply voltage to mitigate this point of failure. 3A of either is sufficient to run a Wii at full capacity.

As for the port, you can leave it on the board if you want. It makes little functional difference besides retaining the 12v fuse, you'll have to ruin wires from the port to the regulator input pins regardless.
I see, can I wire the regulators to the booball's port then? is a two pin conector that leads to a figure 8 cable as I said.
 

Stitches

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I see, can I wire the regulators to the booball's port then? is a two pin conector that leads to a figure 8 cable as I said.
That description is a bit generic. Are you talking about a C7 110-240v AC socket?
1676956405176.png
 

Stitches

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Ah, C7P. Quite an uncommon cable that one. To answer your question, if you plan to disassemble and integrate an AC to DC power supply into the unit, you can reuse that port/cable. Just be aware that the cable and socket carry AC wall power, and any mistake with mounting, wiring, or handling the socket could lead to a fire and/or personal electrocution. Officially I must advise you to not to handle or attempt to integrate an AC feed into the device unless you are a qualified electrician or electrical engineer. I highly recommend using DC input instead, even if having to repurpose the existing socket holes won't look as nice.
 
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Ah, C7P. Quite an uncommon cable that one. To answer your question, if you plan to disassemble and integrate an AC to DC power supply into the unit, you can reuse that port/cable. Just be aware that the cable and socket carry AC wall power, and any mistake with mounting, wiring, or handling the socket could lead to a fire and/or personal electrocution. Officially I must advise you to not to handle or attempt to integrate an AC feed into the device unless you are a qualified electrician or electrical engineer. I highly recommend using DC input instead, even if having to repurpose the existing socket holes won't look as nice.
Mmm I see, how about adding a resistance before de connecting the wires to the official port? Just so the voltage difference isn't that high.
Also what do you meant by 3A of either? Yes I'm that big of a beginner.
 

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Mmm I see, how about adding a resistance before de connecting the wires to the official port? Just so the voltage difference isn't that high.
Also what do you meant by 3A of either? Yes I'm that big of a beginner.
In that case, throw the idea of integrating an AC to DC supply into the unit out the window. Also adding resistance into the mix is not the right way to lower the input voltage. You need to use a stepdown regulator for that, or just use a lower input voltage.

3A means 3 amps of current. All electrical power supplies list the output voltage and max sustained current output, and multiplying voltage by amperage gives you wattage which is the measure of power consumed hourly by a system in order to run. A 4 layer Wii needs at least 2A of 5v, or 10watts in order to run consistently. 5v 3A (15watts) gives you a safety margin, but 9v 3A supplies are just easier to find online.
 
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